REJETTING BY ROADBIKE MAGAZINE 
REJETTING, USING DIAL-A-JET

REJETTING, TROUBLESHOOTING

REJETTING, CHANGING MAIN JET
REMOVING 1300 FROM GAS TANK 
REMOVING SEAT LOGO
RISERS
RPM AND SHIFTING
RPM VERSUS MPH
SADDLEBAGS
SHIFTER ADJUSTMENT
SHOCKS, REAR, INSTALLING NEW ONES

SPEEDOMETER HEALER  
SPARKPLUGS, INSTALLING NEW PLUGS AND READING THE CONDITION
SPUTTERING AND POPPING

SPUTTERING, COLD WEATHER
SQUEAKY FORKS 
STEERING BEARING TEST
STICKER REMOVAL

TRAILER HITCH
THROTTLE, ADJUSTING
TUNING AFTERMARKET PIPES
TUNING-CHECKING YOUR TUNING

TURN SIGNAL BEEPER

TURN SIGNAL SILENCER
VALVE SPECS FOR THE 1300
VALVE ADJUSTING MANUAL PICS (PDF FILE)
VALVE ADJUSTING PICS BY POISON (PDF FILE)

VEYPOR DATA ACQUISITION, INSTALLATION 
VTX1800 PARTS THAT FIT THE 1300
WINDSHIELD BUFFETING
WOBBLE AND FRONT END CLUNK

SQUEAKY FORKS
I have a 2003 1300 and have had a problem with my forks squeaking. It first started about 4 months ago, I applied some fork oil to the bottom of the forks and rocked the bike up and down and the squeak went away for a while. Now it is back again. What is wrong with these forks? What can I do to fix this? 
Posted By: sgottsch2

Date: Saturday, 9 November 2002, at 7:44 p.m. 
In Response To: Squeaky forks (BK) 
I had the same problem. One of the fork bushings was damaged and was causing the squeak. I’m still waiting on the part, but I think replacing the bushing should solve the problem. Try grabbing the bottom of the fork cover and jiggling it. If the bushing is in good shape it shouldn't really move. if the bushing is damaged, there will be a lot of play and the fork cover will feel lose. Hopefully this is of some help.
Squeaky Fork (also)
I had the same problem on my 2004 VTX 1300R, took it to the dealer and this is what they told me. This is a common problem. A plastic sleeve inside the fork causes the squeak. The squeak is the plastic rubbing against the chrome/plastic. It gets worse/noisier when dirt gets in between there.
Use WD-40 regularly, or silicon.

Cantex
part of the Texas X Riders

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INSTALLATION OF HONDALINE LIGHT BAR
From JKP1300
I FINALLY got my light bar and the installation went fine. The only a couple of things made it difficult. The original turn signal (TS) harnesses are too short and the "new" TS brackets aren't keyed right. The wiring harness connectors make it into the light housing, but just barely. The way the TS brackets are keyed causes them to be turned in (cross-eyed). I just filed the keyhole a little and got them straight. Also, attaching the light assembly and TS onto the bar is very tight and causes some cussing. Overall, the Hondaline light bar and windshield are very high quality parts. If it would quit raining I'd try it out!

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LIGHTBAR LIGHTS-KEEPING THEM ON WITH HIGH BEAMS
If you are interested in keeping your driving lights on during the high beam, this is an easy solution. 
1. Take the front headlight rim off. 
2. Find the mini connector with the blue, green and split color orange wire. The blue wire is your high beam, the green the ground and the orange your low beam wires. These wires go to the relay and tell the relay which beam is working. 
3. Snip the blue wire on one side of the connector and tape it. 
4. Your driving lights will now stay on in both upper beam and lower beam. The relay will not switch them off. 
The driving lights being on will now result in about the same wattage as 2 headlights for cars. 
When you switch to high beam, you end up with close and far coverage. Mine work great. 
And This too….
From: jaustin 
To: bikerdj111@mchsi.com 
Sent: Monday, August 02, 2004 3:24 AM
Subject: light bar mod
Hey NC, I did the light bar mod on my 04 VTX 1300 to keep the bar on while the high beams are on. I did not have the same wiring as listed in the write up on your page. It tells you to find the connector with the blue, green and split orange wire. I did not have one. What I did was find the relay plug that comes with the light bar and found that the blue wire is the high beam wire and cut it. Worked like a charm. you may want to add that to your info site, which is great by the way and thank you for sharing it with us.
Sincerely,
James Austin


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BRAKE COVER
We just got in the new brake reservoir cover by Big Bike Parts. Its all metal and made in one piece and doesn't melt like some of the plastic versions. Part number BIG-55111 

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HIGHWAY BARS
I just heard back from Shawn at National Cycle. The highway bars for the 2003 VTX 1300 S (Retro) will be shipping in mid November. They are taking orders now for Part # P4011, $149.95, plus $10.50 S&H. 
877-972-7336. www.nationalcycle.com

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REMOVING “1300” FROM THE GAS TANK
I took 4 to 5 long pieces of waxed dental floss and started at the thin side and worked my way forward, back and forth (up and down).Takes about 5 to 10 min. Then I used the Goof off to remove the glue. Came out perfect. Jim 
OR
They are held on by very strong doublesided tape. I used a hair dryer and heated the emblems until I could peel off the nameplates. I then kept heating the remaining goop on the tank and rolled it off with my thumb. It took about 20-30 minutes a side. I also used goof-off adhesive remover to help break down the glue. Then I cleaned and waxed the tank. I also used this same process to remove the two honda emblems on the chrome side covers. Piece of cake.
MR MOJO

OR

From Clayton Root

I had mine off in less than 2 minutes per side and required nothing more than 3M Gloss Enhancer to remove the VERY minor residue left behind. By the way, this stuff has worked amazingly on my windshield ever since I got the bike. It literally appears to dissolve bugs. But I digress.
 
 Working in the technical community at 3M definitely has it's advantages. Although the mounting system used by Honda for our badges is not 3M's, it is similar to the construction of our VHB (Very High Bond) mounting tape.
 
 There IS a SECRET to getting this stuff off easily. Fight it and you will be cursing for most of the day and may even lose some blood.
 
 First, I used Dental Floss in a kind of sawing action from front to rear of the emblem being careful to exert force away from the gastank (paint). Wear gloves or the Dental Floss will cut through your fingers. This step took about a minute per side and left behind a layer of the mounting foam tape. Now here's where the secret comes in. DO NOT try to pull this material away from the tank surface, ie perpendicular to the tank. Trying to roll it up with your thumb is equally distressing. Rather, get ahold of an edge and apply slight but continuous tension in the longitudinal direction, ie towards the front or back of the bike. The material will stretch and the adhesive will literally fall away from the tank. Don't pull too hard or the material will break and you'll have to get hold of another edge. Slower is faster when it comes to removing adhesives. I had virtually nothing left adhering to the paint so no goo-gone or citrus cleaners were required. My bike was two years old when I did this and I can't notice any differences in tank color where the badges were.
 
 People who have fought with trying to remove these materials are flabbergasted when they see how easy it is using the right process. It is the same principle as removing 3M's Command Adhesive used on Coat Hooks and Picture Hangars without damaging wall surfaces. I got a great chuckle at a PT Cruiser event where a guy had been trying to remove taillight covers for over an hour. He'd broken two fingernails and was bleeding so he went cursing into his hotel room to patch himself up. While he was gone, I showed his 8 year old son how to remove the stuff. When dad came out a few minutes later, this kid had the job done on the other side. "How the hell did you do that" was his exclaim of disbelief.
 
 Adhesives. Gotta love 'em.

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DRIVE TRAIN LASH
Check the throttle play. Some bikes were delivered with some excessive play in the throttle (including mine) which exacerbated the drive train lash. After the play was taken out the lash was a lot less, but you will always have some lash from a shaft drive. It's the nature of the beast. Hope this helps.

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INSTALLING HONDA WINDSHIELD
Those are good prices. Re: Installing yourself - the windshield is easy. The light bar requires removing your front turn signals and remounting them on the light bar. The directions are pretty good. I did it without any help and I am no wrench head (unfortunately). 
If you can - try to do both at the same time - do not tighten down the actual lamps until you get the shield on, they will be in the way. Just hand tighten the lamp mounting bolts until you get the shield on - fold them forward and the shield will go on. 
If I remember right I did the entire windshield first to get the angles right on the fork mounts - removed the shield but not the mounts in order to keep the shield out of the way - then did light bar. Did not tighten down lamps, mounted windshield, then tightened lamps.











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There are a number of articles on rejetting. Be sure to read the last one by RICH. It starts at "LAST ONE".

REJETTING THIS WAS GIVEN BY MAVERICK'S ON THE VTXOA TECH FORUM. Please read this note from Justin before starting. And the one from Highmiles also.
Well I just got done installing my jet-kit. From pre disassembled to completely reassembled and running, including installing new spark plugs, took just under 1 1/2 hours, without too many surprises. The instructions supplied by "maverickgs", his pictures, and the instructions sent with the jet-kit made the whole process quite easy. 

I will give just a few extra tips that might help some people. 

1. Before I started tearing into everything, I shut off the fuel valve and ran the bike until it ran all the gas out of the carburetor and the engine died. This might help a little with not making too much of a mess of spilled fuel. 
2. When trying to remove the gas tank, be aware that the wires for the gages that were just removed in the step before are attached to the underside of the tank with loop that just needs to be bent a little to free the wires. The loop is on the right side of the tank and about 3-4 inches back from the front of the tank. There is also a small vent (?) tube attached on the underside of the rear of the tank near where the seat would be. It easily pulls off and you don't have to worry about any gas coming out. 

It really is very easy and not too intimidating. If you have any kind of mechanical ability at all, it should be no problem. The bike started up just fine without any kind of adjustments. And the bike definitely has a little more crispness in the throttle response.
And this from Highmiles:
Rejetting is not as intimidating as it sounds. Just take your time and handle everything with care and don't force anything. Dynojet's instructions are pretty clear. Here are the steps I recommend: 

1. Remove seats & spark plug covers at carb side. 
2. Disconnect speedometer from fuel tank (just the bottom 3 screws only). Position speedometer out of the way to remove fuel tank. 
3. Disconnect the fuel hose at the bottom of the fuel switch. 
4. Remove fuel tank mounting bolt and lift up back of tank and pull off fuel tank (this is actually pretty easy). 
5. Remove Air box assembly (3 screws, 1 bolt and 2 hoses). 
6. Remove vacuum cover (top of carb) & spring, pull out rubber boot. With a Phillips screwdriver, push down, turn and release the plastic piece. 
7. Replace the stock needle with the Dynojet needle, install plastic piece and rubber boot (note tab alignment), replace stock spring with Dynojet spring and replace cover. 

Highmiles

Continued below for maverickqs instructions.
Rejetting is not as intimidating as it sounds. Just take your time and handle everything with care and don't force anything. Dynojet's instructions are pretty clear. Here are the steps I recommend: 
1. Remove seats & spark plug covers at carb side. 
2. Disconnect speedometer from fuel tank (just the bottom 3 screws only). Position speedometer out of the way to remove fuel tank. 
3. Disconnect the fuel hose at the bottom of the fuel switch. 
4. Remove fuel tank mounting bolt and lift up back of tank and pull off fuel tank (this is actually pretty easy). 
5. Remove Air box assembly (3 screws, 1 bolt and 2 hoses). 
6. Remove vacuum cover (top of carb)& spring, pull out rubber boot. With a phillips screwdriver, push down, turn and release the plastic piece. 
7. Replace the stock needle with the Dynojet needle, install plastic piece and rubber boot (note tab alignment), replace stock spring with Dynojet spring and replace cover.


8. Unattach choke lever from bracket at left side of bike. 
9. At behind of carb, loosen insulation band clamp at carb side. You may need to disconnect a vacuum hose to get access




11. Pull carb and tilt up to gain access to bottom. 
12. Unattach linkage by removing cotter pin and washer.


13. Remove float cover and change main jet with Dynojet's. Be careful not to bend or damage the float. Dynojet's instruction have a pretty good picture. 
14. Replace cover 
15. Adjust pilot screw (Dynojet says 2 1/2 turns, but according to manual, factory setting is at 2 3/8 - pretty darn close)






You're done! with the rejetting. Now just put everything back together. There's a notch on the carburetor that goes into a cutout in the rubber insulation hose for proper alignment. Pretty easy, eh. 
Hope this helps. Here's another picture with the vacuum cover off.

LAST ONE

SPREADSHEET BY RICH

Here is the latest Jetting Library and also a section I send out to who ever request the library.
Rich

Tips Section   http://www.vtx1300tips.com/

Carb breakdown                    http://www.hondaonlineparts.com/showView.asp?pid=1010&prd=VTX|VTX1300C|2005
Stage I                                      http://www.dynojet.com/jetkits/jetkit_info.php
Jet instructions                       http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/1192.pdf
Stage III                                    http://www.thundermfg.com/store/index.php?action=item&id=94&prevaction=search&previd=&prevstart=0
 Blocking plates                     http://www.hondadirectlineusa.com/stores/byBrand.asp?brd=GP+Cycle%2DGerman+Pete&str=12&ID=627553285

Fuel is maintained at a constant level in an adjacent float chamber, usually part of the carburetor body, by means of a float and valve arrangement, and is admitted into the airflow beneath the slide through a series of jets, the most important of these being the needle jet - the one the tapered needle slides in when the slide is moved. The size of this jet, and the taper and relative position of the needle are the determining factors for mixture (air/fuel ratio) in the range of 1/4 to 3/4 throttle, give or take. Once the throttle is above 3/4, the needle jet passes pretty well all the fuel that comes its way. It is regulated only by the size of the restriction below the needle jet, which is the main jet. Changing the size of this jet thus controls mixture at the "top end" of the throttle, and to an extent, the rpm range. (Since mixture is dependent to a degree on airflow, the upper end of the throttle range wants to be tuned at the upper end of the operating rpm range.

To set the jetting for either of these ranges, we do a "Plug Chop." The tip of the spark plug insulator changes color with mixture - a white tip shows too lean a mixture, a black one, too rich. The ideal is just the sandy side of chocolate brown.

To do a plug reading, you want to run at 1/2 throttle for a minute or so, pulling upwind or up a hill, say, and then suddenly hit the neutral finder, if so equipped, or pull in the clutch, and turn of the key, coasting to a stop at the side of the road. Where you take the plug wrench out of your pocket, and pull out the plug and have a look. White plug, clip down, black plug, clip up.

For Main Jet tuning, repeat as above, but at full throttle. White plug, bigger jet, black plug, smaller jet. If it won't get up onto full throttle because of bucking and missing, you have to look at your pipe and if you see black smoke, you know it's 'way too big, so you'll have to try a smaller one. If it's too small, you'll get a white plug tip on full throttle, if not a lot of starving, bucking, missing, spitting back from the carb, (classic weak mixture) etc. Your main jet will have to be an awful lot too big before its size will affect the mid-range of the needle adjustment.

The first 1/8 of throttle opening is affected by the pilot, or idle jet setting, and throttle cutaway affects the "transition" from idle circuit to needle. Adjust pilot jet at idle, alternating between the idle stop screw to get the lowest possible idle, and the pilot jet screw, to bring the idle up as much as you can. Throttle cutaway can only be changed by changing your slide, but fortunately, this is an adjustment that is seldom necessary. The indication that you need to will be hesitation (or worse) as you increase throttle from just above 1/8 to the needle range.

End of Re-jetting

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CHROME DRIVE SHAFT COVER
Cobra makes it, but save yourself some money and get it from CruiserCustomizing.Com ( http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/detail.cfm?model ID=54&Category ID=7&manufacturer ID=4&product ID=5433 ). $42.95 and it does fit the 1300. 
Jaffiss Y

OR
Yes it is for the 1300. I got the driveshaft cover from Rivco, www.rivcoproducts.com. It is not in the catalog or on the web site yet. Call 1-888-801-8222 and ask for part number VTX016. I paid 39.95. It attaches with 2 springs on the inside of the drive shaft and looks real good. I also have the drive shaft bolt cover which is the same one for the 1800, it fits both. Hope this helps.

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WHITE WALL TIRES
This place is where a lot of folks go to buy Aero tires:
https://httpsolutions.net/secure/donelsoncycles/showcart.cfm?storeid=1
A set of whitewalls for our bikes would run about $230 including $10 shipping per tire.
Someone said on the all Aero forum that they were out of the rear though. But that hopefully, would be a temporary situation.
Marilyn
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Here are the Dunlop wide white walls:
You would use the 404 in the front and the K555 in the rear. Our tires are the same size as the Aero tires.
Dunlop D404
Front-
140/80-17 69H WWW Part number: 4175-87 

Dunlop K555
Rear-
170/80-15 MC 77H WWW Part number: 4019-98 
I bought tires over the internet before but I can't remember who I got them from. They gave great service and shipping was only $5 per tire.

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HIGHWAY PEGS
I am waiting for lindybars to come out for 1300"s. it is an engine guard with built in highway pegs looks cool and functional. possibly in 3 months they say.............good luck 
This is a SAFETY CONCERN!!!!!!! 
I recently purchased a set of chrome highway pegs from Aeromach. These pegs mount to the bottom of the floorboards and extend up and out. I have discovered a design flaw in the pegs. The right side peg is positioned too close to the foot brake and can cause failure to depress brake fully. i recently had a small accident that was partially caused by these pegs. in attempt o slow more quickly to avoid debris i depressed the foot brake at which time my boot caught the foot peg and the brake could not engage fully. i subsequently struck a sign post and broke my hand. i e-mailed and lettered Aeromach but they have failed to respond.
RUS4739

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LIGHT BAR (ADJUSTMENT)
1. What not to do - don't shim the plate to angle the lights. The screw and nut are soft steel and will strip. 
2. Called the dealer and they will research the problem with Honda. I will let you know when they reply. 
2. My solution. Grip the light firmly and rotate 
in the direction of lowering the beam, don’t be afraid. it took a little energy. I was able to permanently lower the beam to the same level as my main low beam headlight. It worked on both sides and it is beautiful at night. 
4. I'm a little peeved at Honda for the inferior metallurgy in the screw and nut, and especially for this oversight. The dealer thought that Cobra makes the lights for them, Good Luck and go to it.


from Hackman:
Guys, 
I had this exact problem last year when I had my Honda light bar installed. It seems the light bar designer did not properly account for the front rake/geometry on these bikes. If you look at the lamps you will notice that when you try to adjust them down they bottom out on the cross bar. I took a sst metric washer and cut a slot into it. This allowed me to slip this "C" washer between the lamp and cross bar (without removing it entirely). This raises the lamp by the thickness of the washer and buys some clearance so one can gain more down angle. The hot spot of the lamps should be about the same height as the head lamp against your garage door or wall. Hope this fix makes some sense. The washer is hardly noticeable, use a sst washer so it won't rust on ya... 

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SADDLEBAGS
Use the leatherlykes model 329B if you have a Honda backrest, it will work perfectly. If you do not have the backrest, you will just need a couple of longer bolts and a few spacers and it will still work just fine.

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RATTLE, FAN
Question: I’ve got this rattle that is not in the headlight, any idea where it may 
be coming from? 

Answer: From GA DragonFly on the Delphi forum: It's the stamped pockets for 
the fan motor bearings that are the problem. I GUARANTEE other people have 
been stumped by this rattling, thinking it's still in the headlight or elsewhere. To 
know it's there, all you have to do, is either tap the radiator pretty hard, or get 
in behind the motor and tap it, or grab the fan blade and see how loose the 
bearings are. Once you've broken the radiator loose (don't have to remove or 
drain it), you can remove the fan and connectors. SEE HOW LOOSE THE 
MOTOR SHAFT IS, AND HOW THE BEARINGS MOVE AROUND IN THEIR 
POCKETS! This is what's causing the rattle. I thought about crimping the outsides 
of the pockets to hold the bearings tighter, but decided on a more permanent 
way::: Remove the 3 nuts that hold the motor together, and take apart (a little 
sticky from the liquid gasket). Clean the bearing pockets, and the outsides of the 
bearings with alcohol and a rag. I then (carefully!) used QUICK EPOXY STEEL 
MAGIC to make the bearings set up tight in their stamped pockets. DO NOT- Get 
any epoxy or foreign gook on the ends of the 2 brushes!!!!!!!!! Also apply a little 
new Form-a-gasket before sealing the 2 halves back together. The whole 
operation is just a little tricky, but well worth it to get rid of such an obvious 
rattle. Just watch the brushes carefully, and don't let the epoxy squeeze into 
places it shouldn't be. FANTASTIC! That rattle is completely gone! Don't have 
time to put the rad. covers and cowl back on and test ride, but I did heat her up 
an make sure the motor kicked on. All okay! (Used 4 minute epoxy...) The 
Hondaline lower cowl also had a slight rattle and resonation

ALSO

Speedo rattle fixed 
Posted By: Pöi§ön
I’ve had an annoying speedo rattle since my 13ooC was new. Took care of it a few days ago and thought I’d share since it seems to have taken care of it. Used some #7 rubber "O" rings I found in Lowes plumbing department. $1.50 for a ten pack. Here is the step by step: 

Remove the gas cap. Loosen the upper 4 mounting screws. Remove the bottom three, and tilt the speedo unit up and push back. It should now be free from the tank except for the wires. Slip a soft cloth under the unit to protect your tank and keep you from dropping anything into the gas hole. Now remove the upper 4 bolts and the speedo unit will drop out. You will probably have to re-position the weather stripping at the bottom of the lens. Now… the idea is to sandwich the rubber O rings between the metal mounting tabs and the plastic housing at all seven points. To temporarily hold the O rings in place, I rubbed them across a plain old glue stick and centered them over the threaded metal tabs. I did the 4 that hold the speed unit first and screwed them in. Those were the hardest as it was mildly difficult to line the holes back up without disturbing the weather stripping. Now stick the O rings on the bottom 3 points and slide the housing back into place. There is a tab on the tank that slips into a groove at the front of the unit. Make sure the rubber didn’t fall off of it, and check to be sure the 2 rubber feet on the front of the housing are still in place. Screw the last 3 bolts in and tighten everything up. Total time - 2 beers. Not very difficult at all. I’ve ridden a few hundred miles so far and not a peep from it. I don’t see how it could since all metal to plastic points are cushioned with rubber. Rubber washers would work as well but I couldn’t find any that looked thin enough. The O rings flattened right out and didn’t raise the housing much. Hope this helps any of you with this annoying rattle. 

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LAYDOWN LICENSE PLATE
ROOGIE’S VERSION:
Roogie's Laydown License Plate instructions

WILKIEPUP’S VERSION:
Paul worked on ridding my VTX of the "Billboard" license plate bracket today and it was a big success. 
We used the Custom Chrome "Live To Ride" Frame part #19-105 ($10.99) and the Harley- Davidson Chrome License Backing Plate, H.D. Part No. 59899-88T ($13.95)
He took off the Billboard bracket and then drilled three holes in the H.D. Backing plate to match the ones on the license/light bracket on the bike. He went to the hardware store and bought 3 button-head allen bolts (shorter than the stock bolts) and 8 washers.
He used the washers under the bolts at the corners of the license plate frame to fill the extra space since the license fits into a recess in the frame. 
The whole set up cost about $30.
See attached pic.

Marilyn

Adding a Clock cost $5.00 

Since I am bound by time I wanted to add a clock so I picked up this clock at Wal-mart Auto Dept it has a large face and is easy to see , it runs on a battery also . I made a frame rail out of thin aluminum sheeting. I then drilled my holes and mounted it to the frame on the windshield , I then used velcro to mount the clock to the rail, it works great . 

BLUEVTX

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1800 Parts that fit the 1300
1300 owners, thanks to a local 1300 owner - "Matt" we were able to test to see what parts would fit the 1300. This is what we found: 
1. The laydown back plate we sell for the 1800 also fits the 1300. 
2. The 4" pullback risers that fit the 1800 fit the 1300. 
3. Chrome fusion fits, only need one side. 
4. Chrome reservoir covers fit, only need one side. 
5. Chrome Bullets, AM-5000C fit the front forks to hide the axle nut. 
6. Our LED brake light will fit the 1300 - soon to be out. 
7. Our metric mirrors will fit. 
Link: http://aeromach.net/cat pg3.html 
www.aeromach.net 
Aeromach 
Other 1800 parts that fit the 1300
The Chrome Rear Fender Guard Rail for the 1800 VTX Retro will fit the 1300
VTX Retro...
Squeak

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SPARK PLUGS
They are one and the same. Hal just sells them for half the normal price. 
I just installed NGK BKR5EIX-11's based on a call to NGK tech support. Seems that the IFR6L11's are made exclusively for Honda so they can charge what they want. He stated the only difference between the two is that the BKR's are single iridum and the IFR's are double iridium. The singles are rated for 50,000 miles and the doubles for 100,000. The thickness of iridium plating on the electrode is the ONLY difference other than the price. Who do we know that is going a 100K on any set of spark plugs installed in the VTX? 
Honda gets $25+ for IFR's...I bought the BKR single iridiums for $4.69 a piece at Discount Auto Parts. I am using the #5 heat range which is one range hotter than OEM(#6). 35 miles to work this morning and everything seems fine. You might want to give NGK a call for yourself before investing in 100 thousand mile plugs that will only yield you 8 thousand at best. 
Good luck, 
Tim 


PLUGS (SPARKPLUGS) More
The plugs you are looking for are NGK dcpr6e . Those are the standard plugs. However if you ride in places where the weather is very hot Honda recommends dcpr7e. 
As for the smoke coming out of the exaust , you must know that it is normal when the bike is cold . However not normal when the bike is runnning hot. Color of the smoke is also an issue. If it is white it means trouble ( prestone) . if it is black don`t worry . If it is blue it also means trouble (oil getting through the rings)

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Seat
DANGER......I don't recommend this procedure. Do at your own risk.

Remove the stock seat. Turn it over. with a hand held jigsaw, cut out the center and aft plastic underpan. about a 6 inch wide, 8 inch long eggshaped or rectangular shaped piece. lift about an inch and a half of foam out of the removed underpan. Install seat and ride on your cheeks, not your tailbone, as far as you want in supreme comfort.......when installed, seat looks bone stock. 

OR

Contact Rich Maund. You can ship him your seat and he will rework it inserting a gel pad and recover and ship it back all in a week or ten days. His e-mail is……………. rmaund@pinn.net

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HIGH BEAM INDICATOR (DIMMING) Be sure to check out the 2nd and 3rd methods also.

Ok, this has been bugging me for a while since I like to ride during the evenings and at night. (Much cooler for one thing.) On my bike (Black VTX1300) the stock high beam indicator is just too bright. It's actually distracting. I though about a lot of options including just putting tape over the damn thing. Tonight I got a bug up my butt and decided to disassemble it and see what I can do. Turns out it is very easy to fix and you don't have to disconnect any wires or break any water-tight seals. For those of you who would benefit from the things I learned in this process, read on....... 
What you will need: 
Phillips Screw Driver from your tool kit. 
Small Allen Wrench from your tool kit. 
The key to your bike (Duh). 
A clean rag 
A Q-tip 
A #2 pencil 
How long will it take: 
Less than 15 min start to finish. 
Ok, first remove the gas cap (with your bike key). Out of the 7 allen bolts in the instrument cluster chrome piece, only the 5 closest to you hold the piece on. Remove these 5 bolts leaving the 2 closest to the front of the bike still screwed in. Pick up gently (about 1/2" inch) on the pointed end of the instrument cluster chrome piece and push the entire assembly towards the front of the bike. Lift it up and off, rotating it off the right side of the gas tank until it is hanging by the wiring harness. Don't worry, the wiring harness is zip-tied in there so it's not straining any connections. At this point unscrew the last two Allen bolts to separate the instrument cluster from the chrome piece. Rotate the instrument cluster so that it is facing you and the chrome piece is facing the bike. (The instrument cluster will still be tethered to the chrome piece by the wires for the Trip Odometer switch.) There are 4 screws holding the clear plastic cover on the instrument cluster. Unscrew the top two first and put them to one side being careful not to loose or drop the plastic washers on them. Unscrew the bottom two but do not pull them all the way out as they are a pain to get back in and past those small foam pieces. You now have the plastic cover free. 
At this point you are welcome to experiment as I did. First thing to notice is that all the lights are LED's which don't get hot so you don't have to worry about a fire hazard by putting anything on a bulb. I took the cover inside and tried putting MANY different materials down in the hole for the high beam. After each one I would hold the cover up to a lamp and see what it looked like. Being a perfectionist, I decided not to go with fabric (can see the weave) or tissue paper (horribly uneven). My solution is outlined below: 
Be careful not to get anything including dust on the underside of the cover, it is difficult to clean. Pull all the cotton off one end of the Q-tip and fluff it up as much as possible by spreading it apart. Place the cotton fluff down into the High Beam hole. Use the eraser end of the pencil to push it all the way down. Continue using the pencil and keep tapping it down in there as this will make it more even. You can hold the cover up to a lamp every now and then to see how even the cotton is, if it is lighter or darker on one side, use the eraser to gently move the cotton around and then tap it back down. Once it is fairly even, you are ready for reassembly. 
Place the cover back on the instruments, screwing in the bottom two screws first, then the top two. Rotate the instruments back onto the chrome piece and screw in the two allen bolts that hold the two pieces together. Observe that there is a metal tab on your gas tank, this fits in the rectangular hole on the underside of the chrome cover. Make sure that all the wires are routed around this rectangular slot. Rotate the cover back to the top of the gas tank. Start with the assembly forward of where it should end up and slide it back onto the metal tab. You can look under it to line this up. Once the tab is in the slot, line up the hole at the point of the chrome piece and screw in the Allen head bolt just enough to hold it in position. At this point make sure that the wires coming from the front of the assembly are tucked back under the gas tank and coming straight over the lip and under the instrument cluster. Start the last four allen head bolts in their holes before tightning any of them down. Once they are tight (Snug but not too tight, that's chromed plastic you are cranking down on), put the gas cap back in, take the clean rag and wipe all those nasty fingerprints off your tank and chrome. 
I find that this puts the high beam indicator at a wonderful level. It's no longer in the least distracting and I can still tell it's on in the daylight (Although not as quickly as before;-). 
As far as I am concerned, any of this MAY be printed, copied, put on webpages, reposted on forums, or quoted out of context without my permission or credit. Share with others. Hope it helps someone ;-) 
Jaffiss Y 
OR
2nd method Click here: dim the high beam with a photo resister 

3rd method Click here for Cool Runnin’s method 

****************************************************** 
RPM AND SHIFTING
Harry,
I think that will depend a lot on what you want to do after you get into 5th gear.
40 mph=1,600rpm: Just about the slowest you want to cruise in 5th. More suitable in 4th gear (@ 2,000 rpm).
50 mph=2,000 rpm: Decent cruise rpm (@ 2,000 rpm). Okay for slow acceleration but not moderate acceleration. Too low for going up a hill.
62 mph=2,500 rpm: Nice low cruise rpm.
74 mph=3,000 rpm: Sweet cruise rpm.
After that, you can figure it out.
I use the Cobra tach on my C model. Shifting at 2,000 is for sneaking in/out of the neighborhood during the quiet hours. 2,500 gives that low rpm rumble. 3,000 starts to snarl. 4,000 is starting to peak out in the torque curve. 5,000 is about as far as I care to go.
Richard
Orange County, CA

********************************************************** 
STICKER REMOVAL
I peeled off the top layer of the sticker after heating with a hair dryer and then used "Goo Gone". It takes patience. Rub gently until all the glue residue is gone and then apply wax and polish. Maneley


Gently peel......very very very slow after heating. Use “Goo Be Gone” to take sticky residue off then wax your tank. VTX1300R

Carefully use some Meguiars Swirl Remover where you messed up your tank and then wax . Should be like new. Author NC Brew

*************************************************** 
Valve Specs for the VTX 1300

intake 0.15 +-0.02 mm (0.006 +-0.001 in) 
exhaust 0.30 +-0.02 mm (0.012 +- 0.001 in) 

Make sure and do them cold. There is a FT mark for the front and a RT mark for the rear on the primary drive gear of the crankshaft. Make sure that the front cylinder is at TDC and then rotate to the RT mark (308 degrees) for the rear. 

Eric (CHIRO972)

******************************************** 
OIL CHANGE
From the Honda VTX 1300 manual:
CHECKING THE OIL.
Start the engine, warm it up and stop it and support the motorcycle upright on a level surface.
Remove oil filler cap/dipstick and wipe the oil from it with a clean cloth.
Insert the dipstick without screwing it in, remove it and check the oil level.
If the oil level is below or near the lower level mark on the dipstick, add the recommended oil to the upper level mark.

CHANGING THE OIL AND FILTER.
Note: Change the oil with the engine warm and the motorcycle on its side stand to assure complete and rapid draining.
Start the engine, warm it up and stop it.
Remove the oil filler cap/dipstick.
Remove the front and rear oil drain bolts, and drain the oil.
Remove the oil filter cartridge and let the remaining oil drain out.
Apply oil to the rubber seal and threads of a new oil filer cartridge and install the filter cartridge. TORQUE:26 N.m (2.7 kgf-m, 20 lbf-ft) 
Install the front and rear oil drain bolts with new sealing washers and tighten them. TORQUE:29 N.m (3.0 kgf.m, 22 lbf-ft)
Fill the crankcase with the recommended oil:
Pro Honda GN4 or HP4 (without molybdenum additives) 4 - stroke oil or equivalent motor oil API service classification;SG or higher
JASO T 903 standard:MA
Viscosity:SAE 10W-40
3.5 liters (3.7 US qt. at draining.
3.7 liters (3.9 US qts. at filter change
4.3 liters (4.5 US qts. at disassembly
Check the engine oil level. As per above.
Install the filler cap/dipstick.
Make sure there are no oil leaks.



---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CLEANING SPOKE WHEELS

Has anyone come up with a quick way to clean spoked wheels without using a rag between each spoke? A friend says just spray them with "Simple Green" and hose them off. I don't know if this works yet. It has been raining for 5 days and we are looking for 2 more days.


Yesterday I used a honda spray-on foam degreaser and was very happy with the results. I just sprayed on the foam and rinsed with a hose. There are others available at cycle shops.
Blackdog


Go out and buy Eagle One A to Z Wheel Cleaner at your local auto parts store. WARNING: Eagle One also makes a chrome and wire wheel cleaner that is fantastic, but will discolor any aluminum parts like your hub. 
Spray on and hose off. I tend to wipe down the rim and have a "spoke" brush that I use. Once clean, I just run a towel over the wheel and get whatever I can...then ride! It is important to ride since any remaining water will blow off your bike and wheels! 
Whatever you do, don't use brake cleaner on your disc brakes with wheels attached. If any overspray gets on your spokes, it will tarnish them. I did this recently and spent the rest of the afternoon polishing the wheels. 
Good luck!
Gumbo 1969


Blackdog, 
Quick question, is the foam degreaser your referring to the 
HondaBrite cleaner? I have used this with some success on my wire wheel spokes. I don’t use a water hose to spray off, I use a very wet rag and wipe her down, then dry with towel. I wasn’t aware of a Honda degreaser other than the above brand. 
RetroRon (ShdwAce) RB#155

Yes, It is HondaBrite. I have also used a product called S100 total cycle cleaner. It has the same application but not a foam.


Another Choice

For the person trying to find an easier way to clean spoke wheels, I use a 4 inch paint brush (china bristle). If you cut off about an inch or so off the bristles you can work them all around the spokes. It has been working for me. I am using soap. Sometimes I use those sponge brushes to apply and remove polish. They are coarse enough to remove polish and they don’t bend much.

Hope this helps.

Coleman Hardin

******************************************* 
IGNITION SWITCH (REMOVING)
OK its real easy. All you need before hand is a toggle switch and connectors. I took out the two bolts that hold it on and cut the three wires in it. There is only one power wire and the other two just pull power. Using a wire tester I determined the hot and taped it off so I didn’t spark myself . Next, I decided I wanted the toggle hidden from view so I took off my side cover on the ignition side, drilled a hole in the top of the Tool case (no tools in there anyway) and ran the wires down into the case. From the back I drilled another hole to mount my switch facing the rear of the bike. I hooked up my wires to connectors and installed the switch. So now when the bike sits there you can see no ignition on the bike. I reach behind my cover (switch is long enough to bump it with finger without removing cover). Whenever I leave bike I use the triple tree lock or tire locks. I have also moved the horn and installed the Neo pods and Neo strip stuff from kuryakn. Soon I am gong to post pics. I have a big project up at the end of this month when I shave the back fender and recess lights. SF and good riding. 
Spook. 

***************************************************** 
LOWERING THE BIKE 
down and dirty for shocks. 
1. Jack up bike so it doesn’t fall when you take them off, safety first. 
2. Use a shock compressor and compress top towards bottom. 
3. You will see an orange gasket looking thingy. Dust cover or anti rattle, not sure, but push it down towards inside of shock. 
4. Put a wrench on the newly exposed nut and use a screwdriver throug the shock bolt hole to unscrew cap. 
5. Once shock is apart I cut two rungs off the spring and grinded it back level so the caps sit right and you don’t get to much force on one spot. 
6. As an extra I cut my covers (not necessary) cause I like an open spring. 
7. Reassemble in reverse order. Much easier than taking it apart. 
It really isn’t hard but have a friend around. Cheap compressors suck. It dropped my center tire about 2 inched and my rear point about 3 inches. The ride is just as good as before. I like mine stiff so I keep it on 4 or 5 most of the time anyway. Considering having poles milled and slam it to a rigid for summer cruising. Thinking about 2 inch over brake. 
SF 
Spook 

****************************************************** 
LED BIKE LIGHTS

A couple of URL’s for LED’s provided by Bagger John

Radiantz - www.radiantz.com - turn signals, accent lighting, license plate frames and so on. First-cabin stuff! 

Dialight - www.dialight.com - LEDs and other lighting of assorted types. 

LEDlight - www.ledlight.com - strip lights, shapes, and so on. 

The LED Light - www.theledlight.com - LED flashlights, strip lights and discrete LEDs 

Digikey - www.digikey.com - reseller of many electronic components including LEDs and other lighting products 

Lumex - www.lumex.com - Large selection of LED arrays and discretes for automotive applications 

Jam Strait - www.jamstrait.com - makers of LED replacement assemblies for common automotive lights such as 1156, 1157 and 3157. 

Signal Dynamics - www.signaldynamics.com - LED courtesy lights and other products that can be used for lighting up the engine, wheels, etc.

**************************************************************** 
RADIATOR COVER (INSTALLING)
Just received a cover for Xmas. Installed it on the VTX. It is beautiful. Took an hour to install. 
1. Remove old radiator cover. 
2. Remove the 2 top screws. 
3. Loosen and move the horn. 
4. Raise the radiator approx 1/2 inch to remove 
it from the pin/rubber grommet on bottom. 
5. Pry tab on opposite lower side out of position. 
6. Slide cover to front and out. 
7. Install the new chrome cover. 
8. Place large rubber washer in place (comes with kit) 
9. Position nylon spacers in position (kit) 
10.Slide new cover in position. 
11.Lower radiator into position. 
12.Place the 2 screws in place. 
13. Note; use the same 2 radiator screws from bike 
Since the ends are tapered and easier to find the screw holes. 
14.Reposition horn and tighten. 
15.The most difficult part is aligning the 2 Screws when reinstalling. 
16.Outcome: it is beautiful 
17.Drawback: lower left part of the grill has no support in place
where the plastic original one had an ear(item 5)is now gone. I did not 
notice any vibration, but I feel this is the 
only shortcoming. Good Luck. 
Ted Madison

You can also cut out the temp sensor cover off the old cover and 
tape/epoxy/jbweld etc.. it to the new chrome cover. This way you still 
protect the sensor. Adds about a half hour to the install. Still looks great. 

Mr MoJo

Well I took the advice of cutting the old radiator cover to protect the exposed plumbing and add the security tab that was missing. The cutting the old plastic was easy and I epoxied it in place with duct tape to hold it in position until the epoxy cured. A day later removed the tape and it was as solid as being apart of the chrome radiator. Looks great and does protect the plumbing. I hope that H.A.C., takes notice of this and either adds this to their radiator design or informs the buyer of the patch required. 
Ted Madison

******************************************************************* 
Headlight Rattle

My wrench said it like this: 
Honda USED to put a rubber piece on the bottom tab of the headlight bucket. It is not there on our bikes. Take off the outer ring. The headlight will be attached to it. Put tape (my wrench used duct tape) around the tab in the headlight bucket. Use enough tape that it makes it a little difficult to put the ring with the headlight back into the bucket. He said this causes pressure to the upper part of the ring and bucket which is where the vibration was coming from. Good luck. Mr. Mojo

Mine started about two months ago...this rattle and hum...not U2 folks. I soon as I could hear the rattle, this hum would get really loud. It turns out that there is a bracket that is at the bottom of the rear fender that has come loose. This was causing the headlight to rattle. Once he "tightened" it, the headlight wouldn't rattle since the extra vibrations were gone. 

It was really bizarre. 
L8er! Gumbo 

************************************************************ 
Risers

Just got my 4" Aeromach risers today and went to the garage to install them on my bike but backed off when I saw the chrome caps on the bolt heads of the stock risers. Any suggestions as to how to remove the chrome caps, besides the obvious "very carefully"? I don't want to mess them up but then again I don't know if I will be able to reuse them on the bolts of the new risers. Any info or advise is appreciated. I'm anxious to install them but had heard that some people ruined the chrome bolt caps on their risers while trying to remove them. Thanks in advance. RXVTX

Easy use a small flat blade screwdriver the caps are only buttons that cover the top of the bolt. Be careful reinstalling the caps I use 8MM deep socket to reinstall then so I don't bend them. BIG008
The trick is: The caps do not go down the sides of the bolts at all. They just sit on top. Just use a thin bladed knife and softly insert it just under the top of that chrome cap.
The guys who damaged the riser tried to pry it up like it went down the side of the bolt. It does not.
Good Luck
Wes
Wes, Thanks for this very important bit of information I was missing. I didn't know that the caps just sat on top, I thought they were like cups that surrounded the bolt head. This is the info I was looking for and I'm glad I got it before I tackled the job. Thanks again, and I'm sure this info will help other readers of this great forum. 
Ride safe, 
RXVTX

***************************************************

KURYAKYN ISO GRIPS (INSTALLING) READ THRU BEFORE STARTING. BE SURE TO SEE “HAND GRIPS WITH PICTURES”)
Roog: The grips are the basic ISO's. Use a razor knife and cut the grips down to the bar or throttle sleeve. Peel the old grip off. You will have to use a little persuasino and tap the end caps off and the other end of the grip should slide off with a little assistance. Thoroughly clean the grip and sleeve with acetone or some other type solvent to remove old glue. Test fit the new grips. Play around with them to see where they feel the most comfortable on your hands. Then note the positioning and remove them. Kuryakyn supplies two tubes of glue for the new grips. Clip the end off one tube and start at the end the handlebar and sqeeze the glue around the whole bar, going about one third of the way up. Keep the glue at the lower end of the bar. When you slip the new grip on it will squeegee the rest of the glue along the handlebar. Remove any excess that appears. repeat the process on the other grip. Two cautions: 1. cover all surfaces of the bike. The glue can damage painted surfaces; 2. the glue sets up real quick so make sure you have the grips where you want them. Enjoy! They are really comfortable. DocMore on grips (installing)The ISO grips are great!!! I have them on my Valk and I love them. I'd like to give you a heads up though.....the ones I have were just a little over sized on the throttle side. The glue they supply aint werth a D@MN either! I had mine on & off several times before I got them on tight. A suggestion, would be to apply a layer or two of aluminum tape to the throttle. Then slip the grip on part way to see if it is tight before applying any glue. This is also the time to check the position of the throttle Boss, Which can also be off Just enough that you can't adjust it far enough for your likening. As for glue...... I used the Honda grip glue It has been the best that I have found so far, and it dries a little slower so you have a little more time to adjust your grips before the glue dries. BONESAND….There’s more…There is a little play with the rubber in the grips...very little. I had problems with the left grip staying in place. I tried 3 times using the glue supplied with the grips. Never held more than one ride. Each time I took off the grip and cleaned everything up and tried again. Same problem. So I reverted back to my old stand by I used before. 3M Super 77 spray-on adhesive. They sell it at any hardware store. Two different size cans. Get the smallest one. Stuff lasts forever. Ever since I used it the grips have held perfect. To use just clean up the old glue on the handle bar, very fine steel wool works great, then use a large rag or towel to cover the immediate area around the bike to protect from any over spray the wind may catch then a light coat of spray on the handle bar, about 1 second burst and I always put a quick squirt inside the grip. Slide the puppy on and with this you do have to get it right, and it will set up real quick. I have 6 months and about 4500 miles on them with no problem. Good Luck, WillieAND….There’s more…ISO grips

AND FROM Bagger John
A different approach to some of the steps


1) Get a thin, flat-bladed screwdriver and gently wedge it between the grip and the bar, at the end of the grip nearest the switch housing. Next, spray some WD-40 down the gap. Repeat at 120-degree intervals. Afterwards, twist and pull the grips off; the WD-40 will break the glue bond and allow you to remove the grips intact. 

2) When installing the new grips, use what we in the trade call "gorilla snot" - HondaBond, YamaBond or similar flexible crankcase sealant. It will bond much more securely than the adhesive which KuryAkyn furnishes and (most importantly) will not crystallize and crack away (more on this later.) 

3) Install a "throttle boss" on your right grip - it will help keep the throttle "open" by allowing you to rest your palm on it, thus easing wrist fatigue on long rides. 

Now - about that glue... 

A couple years back, I had the KuryAkyn-supplied glue I had used to attach the throttle grip let go when I was 120 miles from home. With no way to secure it, I was forced to finish the trip using nothing but the throttle pipe itself to control the throttle. 

While I had used HondaBond and similar products on any customer bike I ever worked with (I was employed in the motorcycle service industry for a while) I had never used it on any of my grips. 

Until now. It's the ONLY thing I'll use from this point forward.



**************************************************************** 
REMOVING SEAT LOGO

When I had my 750 ACE that logo on the passenger seat really looked cheap to me. The same when I got my VTX. So I removed them both using the same technique. 
I used paint thinner and very fine steel wool. I dipped the steel wool into the thinner and rubbed the logo until it disappeared. This process left only a very slight dullness where the logo was. I can only see it while looking very closely and with the right light. A little Honda polish makes it invisible. 
It goes without saying, but I'm going to say it anyway. This process was done with the seat removed from the bike. 
Pat (VBTX BOY)

Another tip;

**************************************************************** 
Handlebar Wobble
Posted By: monster

I bought a red 1300 VTX retro in May 2002. With 7000 miles on the bike in late August, the handlebars started jerking from side to side about 45 mph and got worse around corners. While on a trip, I hit a corner going the magic 45 mph, and totaled it in a barrow pit. After repairs, the handlebars still "tank slapped" at that speed. Many times the dealer tore the front end apart, the forks and frame checked for straightness, the head bearing checked, tires rebalanced, new tires put on, wheels aligned, etc with everything looking perfect. Later, since the dealer was unable to repair the bike, I got a brand new blue 1300 VTX retro. It only has 50 miles on it and is starting to do the same thing. Is anyone else having similar problems?? I heard a rumor of several others having the same problem and it was suspension breaking down. But only after 50 miles?? Any help would be very much appreciated!!

Reply;
I had the same thing at 40-45. After the dealer changed my front tire and checked my wheel for true it still did it. They said put more miles on it so I put a 1000 more and it still did it. They gave me the "don't let go of the bars" also and that pissed me off to where I told them to fix it or replace it. Come to find out, cause I was standing right there when they did it, they over torqued the nut that attaches the forks to the frame. I don't know if this is a good fix or not but I no longer have the wobble what so ever. Of course I only put another 150 miles on it since then. Good luck!! 
Jammer

************************************************************* 
SPUTTERING AND POPPING

I took my bike in for the 600 mile check up, it was running great. When I
brought the bike home, it was not the same. It backfires and takes about 10
minutes of riding, which is mostly sputtering and more backfiring to run
decent again. People have mentioned fouled plugs, does this seem correct to
you? I’m still under warranty, would this be covered. If you have time, I
would appreciate your incite.

Thank You

Chris 

Well, if anything, it should run better after the 600-mile service, not
worse. Other guys here have had similar problems. As I recall, causes have
been due to fouled plugs, valve clearances out of adjustment, clogged air
filter and other minor things. Either way, you should bring it back to the
dealer and let them fix it at their cost.
Also check the air filter and make sure air flows good. Do not use the choke
too much. It will foul the plugs and then it will run poorly. If it is cold out
pull the choke out partway and start the bike.
Use the throttle to keep it running and push the choke back in. Do not
over-rev the bike when it is cold. Just keep it running until it warms up.
I hope this helps. After checking the plugs try starting like I said and if
that does not work, take it back to the dealer.

NC Brew

*************************************************************** 
BEETLE BAGS, (INSTALLING)

First, here are some tips posted by tricci last fall when he received and installed his bags:

"Anyway, a couple things you boys and girls should know before installing. If you follow the suggestions, you'll sail through the installation. You know that big fat rear fender on your bike? Looks like there's lots of room under there, doesn't it? Well, let me tell you, there's not that much room, I know, I tried to do my splicing of the signal wires from below. Big mistake, trust me. Here's the trick: pull off the turn signals and cut the wires off. Next cut the crimped on butt connectors that come on the bags. Now crimp on a pair of spades and receptacles on those bared ends, plug them together and shove the spades under the fenders. Besides making life easier now, you will appreciate this later if you have to remove the bags because you simply unplug the
spades and pull the bags off the bike.
Another thing, check the wires going into the socket for the bulbs, if the wires are on the two outside terminals, see if you can move one of them to the center post (I couldn't, they were soldered and I guess yours will be too). The reason for this is: 1) It connects the power to the brighter of the 2 filaments in the bulb, and; 2) Since you are now connected to the brighter filament, your signals will operate at the proper brightness level and at the correct speed. If the outsides are used, the blinker is quite rapid and the bulb is very dim. Because my sockets were soldered, I had to request a new set of sockets and pigtails from Corbin. They said they were going to FedEx them overnight so that I could have them for Saturday delivery. If they do this, they'll have kicked all the customer service horror stories in the ass as far as I'm concerned. I'll repost a message if all goes well." (End of tricci's comments).

I fully agree with tricci, but I think Corbin has all of the right sockets now in the Beetle Bags when they're shipped. As I mentioned in my previous email, you don't have much room to operate between the inside of the fender and the rear tire! Here are my previous comments,with some additions:
The first challenge I had with installing the bags, and Installing the risers, and installing anything that's required the removal of a factory-torqued bolt, nut, or screw, was loosening up the bolts in the fender trim. Seems the plant in Maryville has a keen grasp (pun intended) on the fine art of torquing the you-know-what out of the fasteners on this bike!
Before you install, check the color of the bags carefully, and in different light conditions. If you have the advantage of natural sunlight, hold the bags next to the bike - then check in shade, dusk/dawn, partial light, etc. Natural light is where I really discovered the difference in the shades of orange -- couldn't tell in the garage.
As tricci mentioned, try to do as much of the wiring (for the turn signals) before you put the bags on. I have small hands, and I was cramped when I was trying to connect the wiring in that small space between the tire and the inside of the fender. Better yet, if you have a tire replacement coming up soon (I've noticed some tread wear at 8500 miles on my rear tire), you may even want to take advantage of the opportunity to have your mechanic (or yourself, if you change your own
tires) work the wiring then. Also, put the passenger pegs in the down position when you're installing the bags (you should be able to return them to the up position when you're finished, but a passenger will not have much room for their feet on them [just their heels], if/when you ride 2-up... I ride solo, but I'll probably put a set of Kury extenders on the passenger pegs to move them down and forward in the event I ever have a rider). And, although I think I recall the instructions suggesting seat removal before installation, I didn't remove mine (I have a Corbin seat) and had no problems installing the bags.
I used an awl to start holes in the lining for the mounting bolts on the front of each bag -- they were not pre-cut. Simple process - just make sure you're punching the hole in the right place. All in all, installation is not a complicated procedure. I put a lot of towels and blankets on my garage floor so the bags wouldn't scratch in case I dropped them.
I did the install myself -- but if you've got a second pair of hands available, it would probably help.
To keep 'em clean and shiny, I use Harley Glaze (available at HD dealers) after washing (yes, I use HD products -- I like their cleaning supplies and their tire brush).

If you have any problems at all, or questions about the color match, I found two absolutely superb, customer-focused people at Corbin who went out of their way to help me: Cher in Hollister, and Harley in Daytona.
Call them - they will definitely take care of you.
Hope this helps you, Marilyn, and anyone else needing intstallation tips for Beetle Bags. Thanks again, tricci, for your guidance last fall!
Glenn

Beetle Bags Caution
Hey NC Brew!

I hope all is well with you. Just wondering if the following additional tip 
should be added regarding Installing Beetle Bags?

I installed mine last weekend however I had a few moments of horror when I 
ended up twisting off the bolt that comes from the lower fender through the 
ground wire and into the Beetle Bags. Yikes! Thank goodness for my bodyshop 
friend who was able to get the twisted off bolt out.

When the bags are painted - I guess all kinds of paint ends up inside the 
threads of where the bolt goes making for a tight fit. A suggestion is to be 
sure and ream these threads out before tightening so you don't end up with 
the same horror show I experienced

Cheers!
Maneley

*************************************************************** 

WINDSHIELD BUFFETING

I AM EXPERIENCING SEVERE WINDSHIELD BUFFETTING; This is not like normal wind buffeting. It literally feels like a jackhammer is trying to drive you down through the seat. It is so severe; it makes the bike vibrate up and down. After some experimentation, I have adjusted the windshield to a slightly more vertical position. The next step is contacting technical assistance at Memphis Shades. I have been advised, that they have a deflector that attaches to the top of the shield to direct the air upward farther. If I put a hand up at the top of the shield, I can pretty well stop it, and the normal flow of air coming under the shield is not bothersome at all. If I can get the buffeting to normal levels, I will be more than happy. 
Imagine someone hitting you directly on the top of your head with a 10 pound hammer 180 times per minute. THAT is what this feels like. I was 6'1" and now I'm 5'11". I can't afford to get shorter, or I'll look fat ! 

Highmiles


Latest on windshield buffeting. 

Decided to go to some engineering sites and learn a little about the dynamics of what was happening. There is wind going over the windshield and air going over your legs and up the backside of the windshield that meet just past the top of the windshield. The two streams of air then meet and pass back at a height over the windshield determined by your speed. (Faster speed, lower path, and closer to your head.) Very small changes can make big or little differences in where the air is directed. In my case, I have moved the windshield to a slightly more vertical position, and made the buffeting reasonable. I have experimented by taping a wire around the edge of the windshield (on the face portion) creating a spoiler, and raising the air even further, virtually eliminating buffeting, and leaving what feels like a nice breeze passing by my face from the backside of the windshield. I don't intend to ride around with the wire taped there, so I looked at other options. I considered taking a heat gun, and bending a spoiler lip at the edges of the windshield, but that would make fine tuning tedious. Instead, I will lay a fine bead of clear silicone down along the edge. This should be easy to tune, and not be too conspicuous. Since the windshield is well below my eye level, it will not interfere with my vision. You also have the option of tuning the backside of the windshield to accomplish the same goals. some of the ways of doing that include installing lowers ot installing a windshield bag. Either one will change the flow and is another method of controlling buffeting. Show chrome makes a triple pouch bag to fit the Memphis Shades Fats windshields that fits across the entire width of the windshield, and that will also be on my list of future purchases. 

If you have a problem with strong buffeting, or just want to fine tune minor buffeting, don't be afraid to play around a little with the adjustments. A little experimenting can make you a LOT more comfortable. Hope this helps someone else in the future. 

Highmiles













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Paint Swirls.


Try Maguire’s swirl remover.

Just another opinion...I use a wax called 'Zymol', I bought it at Wal-mart, 
it's about 12 bucks a bottle but a little goes a long way with this stuff. I 
think it works great on my black 1300.
RETROROB

MORE ON PAINT SWIRLS
I've always taken extremely good care of the paint on all my bikes. A couple weeks ago, the paint on the tank of my black 1300 was looking so bad I was threatening to contact Honda about it. Swirls, scratches, film, etc. I tried everything that had worked in the past and was getting nowhere. Then I bought a bottle of 3M Rubbing Compound. Amazing stuff! It saved the tank.
I had sworn I'd never own another black bike. I know I won't after this one!
Chris Noftz

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TUNING AFTERMARKET PIPES.

Okay guys, lets share some ideas on pipe tuning. When I install pipes, I am looking for several things to happen. I want better performance, less weight, good looks, and that elusive low throaty sound. With tuned 2 into 1 pipes, you are pretty well locked in to all of the above. It is difficult to change anything without giving up some of the tuned in performance. With 2 into 2 pipes, OR drag pipes, serious improvements can be made. 

Rule 1: To maintain low end torque and crisp throttle response on the street, you must have SOME backpressure. 

Rule 2-10: Refer to rule 1. 

How do we do this? 

1, Put in a thumbscrew. A thumbscrew is a screw that looks like it has a round disc on one one end, (sort of looks like a miniature lollypop.) It only costs a few cents and can be obtained at your local Hardware store. To install, get 2 nuts and a washer. Put one nut on the screw and run it up close to the round part of the screw. Stick the threaded portion of the thumbscrew through the hole where your baffles bolt in. Center the round portion of the thumbscrew in the center of the pipe and run the nut up against the inside wall of the pipe. Put the washer over the screw on the outside of the pipe, and then install the second nut, tightening it down against the washer. It will now look like you have just a ring of opening where the exhaust can come out. That's okay, exhaust travels mostly in a swirl against the wall of the pipe. Experiment with different size thumbscrews to get the best sound and best performance for your bike. 

2, Baffles. They come in all forms and lengths, from about 2" to 12". Longer is quieter. Cheaper is NEVER better, buy from a major manufacturer like BUB etc. You can also tune them by wrapping packing material (fiberglass or steel wool) around the out side before slipping them in your pipes. 

3, Torque Chambers. These are basically like a short tube baffle that is necked down in the middle. Deep and Loud, the right set can make your bike come alive. 

4, A combination of 1 & 3. There is a company in Charlotte NC that makes these. I intend to try these with my new pipes, at some point, and will let you know the results. They look very promising. http://www.bigcitythunder.com/ 

Number 1 is the cheapest, but works very well. Don't be afraid to experiment with all of the above. You Can find the perfect sound. 

I know some of you must have tricks you have used or heard about also. Please don't be afraid to share. 

Highmiles

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RPM VERSUS MPH (see TEXT BELOW)

























1600 RPM IS 40 MPH MORE SUITABLE FOR 4TH GEAR. SHOULD BE DOING AT LEAST 50 BEFORE SHIFTING INTO 5TH GEAR.
2000 RPM IS 50 MPH YOU CAN CRUISE LEVEL ROADS BUT ONLY ACCELERATE SLOWLY.
2500 RPM IS 62 MPH NICE LOW CRUISE RPM
3000 RPM IS 74 MPH SWEET CRUISE SPEED.






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Adding a Clock on windshield cost $5.00 
since I am bound by time I wanted to add a clock so I picked up this clock at Wal-mart Auto Dept it has a large face and is easy to see , it runs on a battery also . I made a frame rail out of thin aluminum sheeting. I then drilled my holes and mounted it to the frame on the windshield , I then used velcro to mount the clock to the rail, it works great . 


BLUE VTX

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Checking your tuning

The ideal way to check whether a bike is in a proper state of tune (the mixture is correct at all places in the RPM range) is to run the bike on a so-called gas dyno. This is a dynamometer with an exhaust-gas probe. The bike is run against a load and the exhaust gases are measured for CO content. There's a certain range which indicates ideal mixture settings. 

A handheld gas analyzer can also assist here. 

If you don't have access to either of these tools, you can perform the following test: 

1) Ride the bike on the open highway for about 5 miles, keeping in the upper 2/3 or the RPM range. A steady-state throttle setting works best here. 
2) Pull in the clutch and kill the engine with the "Run-Stop" switch. Don't allow the engine to slow the motorcycle and don't close the throttle until the engine stops. 
3) With the clutch still disengaged, pull to the side of the road, using the brakes to slow the bike. 
4) Turn the keyswitch to "OFF". Allow the bike to cool down for a few minutes. 
5) Remove one plug at a time and examine them. 
6) A light brown, grey or tan plug indicates correct jetting. 
7) A black, sooty condition indicates a mixture that is too rich. 
8 ) A white or blistered electrode indicates the motor is running too lean. Should this be the case, go up 1/2 size on your main jet (for starters) and raise the jet needle by approximately .020" (via shim or adjustable "clip", if your bike's carbs are equipped with that type of needle) 
9) Repeat the test after rejetting. 

I'll be happy to go over this either via e-mail or on the phone should you have questions. 

Contact Bagger John at http://www.xtremecruisers.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl

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OIL – 

Since I am an AMSOIL dealer I am partial to AMSOIL


This is a reply to someone who asked which kind on AMSOIL to use in his VTX 1300;

I received a question from someone saying they were switching to Amsoil and wanted to know which Amsoil oils to use in their VTX 1300. This would also apply to the 1800 and any liquid-cooled motorcycle. The filter SMF103 is for the VTX, E-mail me for any other bike or vehicle. 

This is my reply. 
MCF-01 Case 10W-40 Synthetic Oil (12 qts-3 changes) 
EAOM-103 Oil Filter (order 3) 
SVG-QT 75W-90 Gear Oil (enough for 7 changes) 

If you need fork oil use STM-QT (1 quart)

You can call Amsoil at 1-800-777-7094 during regular business hours 7 AM to 5 PM CST. Be sure to give them my dealer # 1180361 and name Patrick Ponsonby. This is the only way I get credit for your order. If you want to become a dealer it will cost you $30 per year but an order of $100 or more will save you that much. Of course you can make at least 2 orders in the year time frame, now and next year and you will save money. I will also give you a free website if you use my dealer application. Click Here for an Application.

I will also pay your dealer fee for 6 months ($15.00). You fill out the application and send a check for $15 to Amsoil Building, Superior, WS 54880 and when Amsoil assigns you a dealer number I will mail you a check. I will also give you a completely free website just like mine (http://synthetic-oil-tech.com/1180361)

Or go to my Amsoil web site http://www.synthetic-oil-tech.com/1180361 and read about Amsoil. You can go there and order. Click on “AMSOIL On-Line Store”. This will take you to the "AMSOIL" site where you can order. 
For your VTX 1300 you should keep the Honda oil that came in the bike when you bought it in for the first 500 or 600 miles. After that it is important to change oil and get the old Honda oil (and any metal shavings) out and also replace the filter. When you change oil at 600 miles (scheduled Maintenance check), you should use Amsoil 10W-40 as above. This engine oil can be run for 25,000 miles or for 1 year. I intend on changing mine in December of each year. I think I will also change the filter twice a year and top off the oil at that time. 
You can click here: “ENGINE OIL, CHANGING” and it will give you instructions for changing both engine oil and here "Changing FINAL DRIVE OIL" for rear gear oil. Make sure you get all of the oil out of both places. Be sure to take out both drain bolts for the engine oil. 
E-mail me if you have any more questions. 
When I first put AMSOIL in my VTX 1300 it ran quieter and shifted smoother. I know it will make the engine last longer. While you are on the website read some of the material and you will be convinced on AMSOIL. 

Patrick Ponsonby (NC Brew) 
Amsoil Dealer # 1180361 
http://www.synthetic-oil-tech.com/1180361
syntheticoil@mchsi.com
252-426-1095

Alarm, Installing the Gorilla Alarm System (http://www.Hondadirectline.com) $79.00

After the last round of discussions on alarm systems, I decided to go ahead
and spring for one on my X. 

Most folks seemed to think that the Gorilla Alarm System was sufficient for
their needs and after reading up on them I thought so as well. I bought mine
from HDL for $79 and change. 

Yesterday, I decided to put it on. The box says 15 or 20 min installation.
Yeah right. It's not hard, but if you want to do it right then it certainly
takes longer than that. One thing that's important to note here is that this
alarm system DOES NOT have a battery backup which means, that if someone
cuts the wires to it, then it's useless. That's not a big problem as long as
you do this right...it's just something to make note of. 

Installation consists of a hot wire and neg wire (directly to the battery)
as well as an LED light and a tip sensor. First thing you'll need to do is
pull your seat off. No big deal...two bolts and it's off. Next, wire up the
hot and the negative wires in the harness directly to your battery. This
involves removing the three screws that hold your battery box lid down and
loosening the battery terminal screws enough to slide the connectors on the
harness under and then tightening them down again. At this point, go ahead
and put your battery box lid back on as your done with it. 

Next, you'll need to secure the tip sensor which is just a very small little
oblong sensor with a piece of velcro on the back. If you read the directions
several times, you finally pick up how it's supposed to be mounted. I
mounted mine on the outside of the rear fender, under the seat and just
rearward of the battery box. That location is very easy to get at for
adjustment and is exactly at the correct angle to make it most effective.
Just peal a piece of supplied velcro and it's on. According the directions,
it's important to put this on the centerline of the bike. Here again, the
rear fender makes it easy because you can easily see the center seam of the
fender. 

Next comes the hardest part. The LED light that tells you the status of your
alarm and warns off thieves needs to be mounted somewhere. You'll need an
8mm drill bit to accomplish this according the directions. I didn't have any
metric drill bits so I just started small and drilled a small pilot hole and
worked my way up with bigger bits till I got the hole ALMOST big enough then
I took and just wallered out the hole a little as needed to make it fit.
Took a little longer, but less time than it would have taken to run out to
Home Depot and buy the 8mm drill bit. 
Mounting location for this is important because you need to be able to see
this little LED light. I looked around for a while and decided to put it on
the instrument panel, above the speedo. There's a perfect place for it
opposite of your trip reset button. Since your trip reset is on the left
side, I decided to just put the LED in the same position on the right. It
worked out great. Just pull the bolts that hold down your instrument panel
and your gas cap and use a sharpie to mark the location of the hole you want
to drill. Just make sure you put your gas cap back on before you start
drilling and use a towel or something to cover your tank up and prevent
scratches. 

Once you've got the LED mounted, run the wires back under your seat
following the stock wiring harness. I even used the factory wire tires to
keep everything neat. That's pretty much it for the wiring part of it. I
taped all my wires together to make nice, clean black harness that would
make it hard to see. Start at the main plug and work your way back so you
can fold the wires over and shorten the harness as needed. 

The hardest part was trying to figure out where to mount the siren box that
really IS the alarm. I first tried under the seat....no room. Then I took
off the left side cover under the key switch...no room there either. I
briefly though about mounting it up near the horn, but that wouldn't look so
great and it would be child's play to cut the wires and disable it (or
simply unplug it). After spending about an hour of taking stuff off and
examining all the nooks and crannies, I decided on what must be the perfect
location. To get at it, lay down along side of your bike on the left side
with your head just forward of the rear tire. Look up above the coolant tank
and you'll find a small area just behind the battery box where two frame
members go horizontal and form a small void area. You'll have to feel up
there and it's up higher than you'll probably think. The alarm box fits
PERFECTLY up there and with the plug at the top, makes it REASONABLY easy to plug the harness into the alarm in a concealed location. The hard part is
getting cable ties around it to secure it. It's not easy, but it can be
done. I had a buddy help me who had small hands. I spent a half hour trying
to get my paws up in there to do it, but he had it done in 5 mins. Once
you've got the alarm box mounted, plug in the harness and you're done. 

Like I said...it's not overly complicated, but it does take a little time to
do it right. Hopefully, I've saved you a little time by outlining this
installation here for you. Remember that hiding this thing out of site and
in a hard to get at location prevents a thief from simply clipping the wires
and making off with your bike. 

The alarm itself is simple to use and the stock settings seemed to work
well. Press the button once to set it, press it again to turn it off. A
quick check of the sensitivity revealed that it seemed to be just about
perfect. Standing the bike up set it off like it's supposed to and a decent
bump into it set off the motion sensor. However, small bumps went undetected
so it won't be going off whenever the wind blows. Seems to work really well.
It's important to note here that EVERYTHING you need is in the kit. You can
throw away the supplied mounting bracket and screws because it's useless. It
doesn't fit the alarm and you won't need it anyway. They do give you all the
velcro and cable ties you'll need though. The connectors are already on the
ends of the wires and make it VERY easy as there is no wire splicing at all.

I figure that without having to spend all the time exploring mounting locations, 
you can probably do this in about half the 3 hours it took me.

Jeremy Whitehead - AKA GeorgiaVTXXX


Here is another idea on where to place the alarm module

Subject: Gorilla alarm
This tip is not wrong but a better out of the weather place to mount the alarm module is in between the frame under the plastic cover that covers the steering head area. If you pull the cover off (simply remove the gas tank and slide the small metal clip on top of the cover off and theses pieces come off easily). Next, there is a triangular opening between the frame that the alarm module will just fit in. I also put the LED on the right side steering head cover. Re-install the covers and nobody can find the module. I put the tilt sensor high on the side of the black portion of the airbox to make adjusting easier. Besides you can not see it unless you know what you're looking for. I bought long pieces of shrink wrap and routed all of the wiring along the frame the same route as the bike's wiring harness, thus making it even more difficult to locate. Loudness....I dare you to stand next to it and set it off! It works great and can not be tampered with even if you can find it! 
carlredVTX (Carl Grimes)

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CLOCK…CENTERED UNDER SPEEDOMETER

Have you considered cutting a hole in your VTX??? Total cost for clock installation...$12.15. 
Tools: 1-1/4" holes saw......$5.00 
half round file.......----- (surely you own one of these)

Material: clock ............$7.15 
(White Arabic Dial with Chrome Bezel 15267)
Go here to order the clock:
http://www.klockit.com/product.asp?sku=OOOOO&id=030915192065323222239609


Here are a few tips: 
1) The chrome housing is removed from the tank by removing the 3 lower Allen bolts. The housing then hinges up and removes. (The top bolts do not need to be removed.) You must remove the front plastic head cover to unplug the speedo wires below the tank on the right side. The wires are difficult to unplug, but you already know this if you've removed your tank before. 
2) Drill a 1/4" pilot hole in the exact center of the Honda badge. 

3) Use a 1-1/4" hole saw with a 1/4" mandrel. Try to find a hole saw that fits in a 1/4" mandrel--Lowe's sells them--$5. That way you can use a small, easily handled drill. If you use a hole saw that fits in a 1/2" mandrel it will be much more difficult to control the drill. 
4) Hole saw about a 1/3 of the way through the plastic from the back side. Then turn over the housing and drill the hole from the front side. This will keep anything from cracking and will leave a smooth surface on the front. 

5) The hole will be slightly bigger than 1-1/4" just due to the wobble of the saw, but it will be smaller than the clock dimension of 1-5/16" You must file the last little bit out with a half round file. 
6) Take your time filing...file from the finish/front side of the housing on the forward stroke only so you don't chip or flake the chrome. (Most filing screw-ups occur by taking too large of a backward stroke - the file coming out of the hole - and then missing the hole on the forward stoke - scratching the surface of the item being filed.) 
7) Plastic files off easily so check often...you only have to remove 1/16" of the diameter...which equals 1/32" from the circumference of the hole. Look at the clock and note how small the finish lip is and you will see you can't get the hole out of round very much...so take your time and keep checking by holding the clock up to the hole from the back side of the housing and noting where to file. 
8 ) The plastic filings/dust is sharp and abrasive...blow it off of the housing. If you rub it off with your hand of a rag you WILL scratch the plastic housing. 
9) Insert the clock. If it is not snug enough put a small piece of black electrical tape on one of the friction tabs. 


Final Look….and on the sexiest color

Shooter

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Backfire from 3" DD HK
I have 3" drags w/ stage 1 kit and K&n air filter on and it still backfires, I remember reading someone had the same problem and did something with the gaskets and it stopped popping and backfiring. Anyone know a solution or at least an idea would be great. 

Thank You, 
Phil


In my experiences, 99% of backfires are caused by a leak around the gasket where the pipe mounts to the cylinder. 

I just replaced a pair of gaskets on a 1997 Suzuki TL1000S that shot out nice blue flames when decelerating with a big pop, fixed the problem. 

Enjoy, ride safely, 

Roog

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Add an oil-pressure gauge to your VTX
By Bagger John
The following applies to the VTX1800, but -may- work on the 1300 as well. (One of you with a 1300 might do a little checking and let us know...) 

If you have ever wanted to install an oil-pressure gauge on your VTX but were unsure of how to do it, read on. I have figured out the procedure and will present a list of necessary parts, along with a bit of a "how to". A little history is in order first: 

In the old days, you could place a "tee" fitting in line with the oil-pressure light switch and connect a sender unit to the tee. This would allow you to retain the idiot light and utilize a gauge at the same time. I have done this with both of my Valkyries and it works great. 

However... 

For reasons unknown to sane mechanics everywhere, Honda chose to use several different sizes of fittings for their oil-pressure switches and oil-gallery inspection points. They also placed the oil-pressure light switch in such a place that you cannot get to it to attach a "tee" fitting. So...the only readily accessible point of attachment is threaded in a non-standard size. Honda does, of course, market an external gauge as a service part - complete with fitting. But few of us will buy the whole kit just for a single fitting, right? 

Relax...there's a better way. Honda even provides it. 

The oil gallery inspection hole is tapped 10mmx1.25 - a nonstandard fitting size to be sure, but it happens to be the same fitting as used on the old GL1000's front brake junction. 

Study your bike's front brake line as it comes from the handlebar master cylinder - see the banjo fitting, hollow through-bolt and crush washers? That's the design we're going to duplicate here. 

What you will need: 

1 10mmx1.25 brake fitting bolt (from a 1976 GL1000 brake "tee") 
2 sealing washers for the above 
1 90-degree "banjo" w/AN-3 threads ( J & P P/N 14-023) 
1 11" brake line w/AN-3 fittings (J & P P/N 14-142) 
1 1/8"-27 NPT to AN-3 adapter (J & P P/N 14-024) 
1 90-degree 1/8"-27 NPT female to 1/8"-27 NPT female fitting (J & P P/N 270060) 
1 1/8"-27 NPT Oil-pressure sender (order specifically for the gauge you plan to use; mine was a VDO unit.) 
1 "P" clamp (for mounting sender) (J & P P/N 11-220) 
1 5/16" ID x 1/8" thick chrome washer 

First, remove the oil-gallery access plug at the front of the motor. (Consult your owner's manual if unsure of the location of this plug). Next, take the 10mmx1.25 bolt and place a sealing washer on it. Place the 90-degree banjo bolt on the 10mm bolt so that the AN-3 fitting faces away from the threads on the bolt. Last, place another sealing washer on the 10mm bolt so it contacts the banjo bolt. Insert the 10mm end of the assembly into the oil gallery hole; tighten just enough (by hand) so that the assembly doesn't readily move around. 

Thread the oil pressure sender into one of the holes in the 1/8"-27 90-degree elbow; tighten securely. Thread the 1/8"-27 end of the 1/8"-27-to-AN-3 adapter into the other end of the 90-degree elbow; tighten securely. Thread one end of the 11" brake line onto the AN-3 fitting which comes out of the elbow. Don't tighten it just yet. 

Remove the nut which secures the top right-side driver peg mount bolt; place a 5/16" ID x 1/8" thick washer over the bolt - then place the "P" clamp's leg on the bolt, with the flat side of the "P" facing the outside of the bike. Install the nut you removed. Take the oil-pressure sender and slide it into the "P" clamp; tighten the footpeg mount bolt. Fish the brake line that you have attached to the sender's fitting assembly down past the radiator to the vicinity of the banjo bolt. Attach the other end of the line to the AN-3 fitting on the banjo bolt. 

When all the parts are in the proper alignment, tighten the "P" clamp hardware - then the two AN-3 fittings - then the 10mm bolt which goes into the crankcase. Pay attention to Honda's torque specs here! 

Last, wire your gauge in and mount it. 

Here's what the oil-pressure sender looks like when mounted on the bike:


Bagger John


















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REJETTING THE VTX 1300 FROM ROADBIKE MAGAZINE

(R) Reprinted with permission from ROADBIKE Magazine.

Air Cleaner; Jetting & Pipes

Paul Spradlin of Underground Cycles in Deer Park. New York, is charging right along with the transformation of our Honda VTX 1300S. Last month, Paul had a baseline dyno run at East Coast Superbikes in West Babylon, New York, and began stripping the bike of some unnecessary parts.


In this next phase of the project. Paul installed a Stage 3 jet kit and custom air cleaner from Thunder Manufacturing, and a set of Shogun exhaust pipes from Samson. He didn't expect to gain much horsepower from the changes. Honda is famous for building stock bikes that run well while still satisfying the EPA.
Here are the baseline dyno results for the stock VTX 1300S. Note that we're using mph, not rpm, on the horizontal axis. Since the VTX doesn't have a tach, rpm Isn't as useful a measurement as mph while you're riding down the road.

We got more horsepower and torque after Installing Thunder's air cleaner and jet kit, and a new Shogun exhaust from Samson.

Stock VTX 1300s

 After rejet, Pipes and Air filter

But we just had to have a set of good-looking. low-restriction exhaust pipes and a snappy air cleaner to go with them. And when those things are changed, it's wise to rejet the carburetor.

Breathe In...

The first job of the day was to work on the intake. Thunder Manufacturing packages its custom air cleaners, such as this round unit, with a comprehensive calibration kit. The Stage 1 and Stage 3 parts and instructions cover the most popular changes that people make to their motorcycles. The Stage 1 parts would have sufficed for an aftermarket exhaust with the stock airbox. Stage 3 was calibrated for changing both the air cleaner and the pipes. (I have no idea what happened to Stage 2.) Paul, of course, opted for the Stage 3 setup.
Before attacking the carburetor, Paul prepared a safe place to store all the parts to be removed and secured the Honda to his lift. He then removed the seat (two 6mm Allen screws) and disconnected the battery. To get to the battery, he unscrewed the module tray (two Phillips screws) and removed the battery cables (two l0mm hex bolts).
Getting the gas tank out of the way meant removing the seven 5mm Allen screws that held the dash to the tank, removing the gas cap. and unplugging the speedometer. (The green plug lives behind the front spark plug cover.) 
A single 12mm hex bolt held the tail end of the gas tank to the frame, and there was one vent hose at the rear of the tank. Paul disconnected the fuel line, placing a rag under the petcock to catch any drips, and plugging the fuel line with a 3/8" bolt after it was disconnected. Then, he removed the gas tank. 
The face and element of the stock air cleaner came away after taking out five 5mm Allen screws.

A 10mm hex bolt and three Phillips screws held the stock backing plate in place. 

Paul also popped the clip at the top of the backing plate, and unclamped the hoses coming into the rear of the backing plate.


You could install the jet kit with the carburetor in place, but it's a lot easier on the workbench. Paul agreed. So he loosened the 17mm plastic nut on the enrichener cable and unclamped the fuel line. He was careful to catch the tiny fuel strainer, which lives in the inlet spigot of the carburetor.

He disconnected the sensor plug and, using a 10 mm open end wrench, loosened the throttle cable adjusters so the cables could be freed from the wheel on the side of the carburetor. A Phillips screwdriver loosened the carb-side spigot clamp, and the carburetor was almost free.

For the last step, Paul unclamped the two small hoses from the lower inboard side of the carburetor, and stuffed a
short 1/4" bolt into the end of each hose to prevent leakage. Finally, he held the disconnected carburetor over the gas tank, opened the drain spigot screw, and drained the fuel out of the carburetor.

The Thunder Manufacturing jet kit was simple to install. Following the instructions, Paul selected the largest (210) main jet, and set the E-clip on the adjustable needle in the fourth slot from the top of the needle.
He then opened the top of the carburetor (four Phillips screws) and removed the stock spring, followed by the slide/diaphragm assembly.

The needle retainer came apart with an 8mm socket. Removing the stock needle, Paul dropped the adjustable needle into place. 

Back went the needle retainer, and the slide was reinstalled in the carburetor. (Have no fear, it can only go in one way.)


Paul installed the Thunder Manufacturing spring, and carefully reinstalled the top of the carburetor. He then turned the carburetor upside down, and removed the four Phillips screws that attached the bowl to the carburetor body.

Being careful not to disturb the plastic float or the O-ring gasket around the edge of the bowl, he gripped the main jet holder with a 7mm open end wrench and removed the stock main jet with a screwdriver. Then, he inserted a 210 main jet, and tightened it carefully. Reinstalling the bowl, he tightened the screws.
Using the provided idle-mixture adjustment tool, Paul gently bottomed the adjuster, then turned it out 2-1/2 360-degree turns.
Reinstalling the carb was just the reverse of removal. To finish up, Paul adjusted the throttle cables so that the handlebars could be turned to full lock without affecting idle speed. 


Moving on to the air cleaner, Paul plugged the larger of the hoses under the carb with the supplied plastic plug. The other hose was attached to the barb end of the small breather filter.
He then bolted the Thunder Manufacturing adapter plate to the face of the carburetor with the supplied 5 mm screws. 

The new support bracket bolted to the adapter with two 5 mm Allen screws, and, at the lower end, bolted in the same location as the original bottom mount. The new backing plate bolted up with two 5 mm countersunk Allen screws. (It's a good idea to chase and clean those threaded holes before ramming a screw in there.)

Finally, Paul set the K&N filter element into the groove in the backing plate, and installed the ball-milled billet cover with a single 5 mm Allen screw (after applying a drop of blue Loctite).


Breathe Out!
With the intake end of the operation straightened out, it was time to swap out the exhaust system. To remove the heavy stock system, Paul removed the 12 mm bolts that held the mufflers to the support brackets and the muffler-to-head pipes clamps.

Then, he removed each muffler separately. Four acorn nuts freed the head pipes from the exhaust ports, and the pipes were gone.
The large support bracket came off by unscrewing two 14 mm hex bolts. And two 10 mm hex bolts freed the regulator from the back of the support bracket.

The chromed Shogun support bracket went on with a mixture of stock and supplied hardware, and the regulator was once again bolted to its backside. (Be sure to use the spacers between the regulator and the bracket. The regulator needs good cooling airflow to function properly.)

Once the bracket was in place, Paul assembled the Warlord Shogun Streetsweeper pipes.
Samson supplied 10"-long louvered core baffles with a 1-3/4" outer diameter. 

Paul cut these baffles down to 2-1/2" so they would fit in the head pipe up to the bend.


Then, he drilled a 1/32” pilot hole, followed by a 1/4" hole in the pipe.

But instead of using the supplied short, 1/4" long by 1/4" diameter Allen screws, he chose longer, 1" by 1/4" screws to secure the baffles. The added length of the screws will help to add a bit more much-needed back pressure to the shortened baffles. 

Next, he loosely clamped the long heat shields to the head pipes. Then, he loosely attached the pipes at exhaust ports and attached the mufflers.
Once all the pieces were in place, he carefully tightened all the exhaust fasteners, starting at the heads and working back to the mufflers. He tightened the clamps on the heat shields, cleaned the pipes thoroughly, and the illsta1lation was finished.

Back Together Again
Paul quickly reinstalled the gas tank, battery cables, and seat. 

And our Honda VTX was ready for another trip to the East Coast Superbikes dynamometer. And how did our rejetted VTX perform?
We saw the most exciting improvements between 60 and 80 mph. The bike gained 5-10 hp over that entire range. Peak horsepower was 62 at 92 mph. There's also a nice, fat torque curve from 45 mph to about 75 mph, giving 75-76 ft-lbs.
This is more significant when you take into account that by replacing the stock exhaust system, support bracket, and air cleaner with more streamlined aftermarket parts, the bike lost a good 15 pounds in weight. And the new set up looks a lot better, too.

But the real test was Paul's ride to and from East Coast Superbikes. Based on his seat-of-the-pants dyno results, he was jazzed by the results.

NC Brew




























************************************************ 
HK heat shields installed? 
Posted By: jammer
Date: Wednesday, 27 August 2003, at 9:56 a.m. 

For those of us who have received our heat shields after install of our pipes, I have some good news. I received mine tuesday and got around to looking at it today. I read the directions and was pretty p'd off that I was going to have to take my pipes off and purchase more gaskets. I then got to looking at the rear pipe, where our problem is, and saw the light. I removed the chrome sparkplug cover above the pipe and the one covering all our relays and such under the right of the seat. Before you go on take the long shield and clamp and look and see how the clamp and shield slide together. Next I took the clamp and unscrewed it so I can slip it over the pipe, still installed on the bike, with the bolt head at the bottom facing forward. Then you put the clamp back together but only a few slots/turns. Slide the shield up behind the pipe so you can slip the shield under the pipes double wall shield. Now this is somewhat tricky but if you remembered how the shield slides over the clamp its a touchy feely kind of thing. After I slipped the shield on the clamp I took a mirror and looked up in there to make sure. I then proceeded to work the heat shield until the cutout for the top flange nut was positioned correctly and tightened the clamp. I used my 1/4 in ratchet with a swivel and 5/16 socket. Worked like a champ. That's it, no pipe removal and no $11-$12 for a new gasket. I rode pretty much all day today and during our stops I stuck my finger by the chrome sparkplug cover and the rolling heat that usually made me pull my finger away quick was no-more. I didn't install the front cause I don't have a problem with heat. I hope this helps out and so sorry it's so long. Good luck and ride on..Jammer
ALSO
Posted By: Mangy Dog
Date: Wednesday, 27 August 2003, at 6:37 a.m. 
In Response To: Re: HK heat shields installed? (WAVTX) 
Put mine on, only, 5 mins. Take the right side cover and right aft spark plug covers off. Put on hose clamp. Finagle (sp) the shield in place putting the tang under the hose clamp and the cut out around the top bolt for exhaust, tighten hose clamp. put covers back on, you are done. It is not ugly and I did take a picture, but it is so far in there that the picture did not come out where you can really see anything. No problems with it, and it definitely works.













Installing new plugs

This is from a guy known as Biglarry. It sounds logical.

I know everyone thinks "hell it's just a plug I'll tighten to spec and all is well" WRONG!
Here's a copy of an email I received that tells you just what happened when a new, first time installed spark plugs are not installed properly.

BIGLRY,
While cleaning up my Retro the other day I was aghast to see oil on the 
cooling fins in the vicinity of the left rear spark plug cover. Upon removal of said cover I noticed the oil residue was coming from the plug base. The plug was finger loose! ACCCCKKKKK!!!!! The plugs have been on about 1,000 miles and I am thinking this one just worked its way loose due to not enough torque when I installed it. ( Someone stole my old torque wrench and I've yet to pony up for a new one). 

One thing I've seen is guys who put in new plugs and use the torque spec of 18N-m (13ft-lb 156in-lb) for installing them the FIRST TIME.

Using a torque spec on a new plugs is wrong and should never be done with new/never installed plugs.

The new plugs are not seated properly if installed this way and things can happen, like improper heat transfer to head and leakage around threads. The new plugs need to be rotated a full 3/4 of a turn upon the crush washer touching the head after seating finger tight. 
You will feel them lock up at this 3/4 turn. This is to insure the proper seating of the crush washer. This seating/crushing 3/4 turn requires more than the 14N-m (10ft-lb) torque that the OEM VTX 1300 spec calls for.

Now, when you reinstall a used plug you must use the 14N-m (10ft-lb) torque spec for the proper seating of the plugs as the crush washer is already flat (if installed properly the first time).
I also prefer to put a drop of clean engine oil or a SMALL dab of non-copper based never-seize on new plug threads to help prevent any possibility of thread damage in the head and I always try to remove and install plugs on a cold engine with aluminum heads.

I know some will say "never put anything on plug threads as it interferes with heat transfer from the plug to the head", but I feel this step in plug installation it is most important with the steel threaded plugs going into an aluminum head.

This is all information I know to be true from installing and removing more plugs in bikes than most people have ever seen (I've owned two bike shops over the yrs and worked in a few more).

BIGLRY 



How to Read Your Spark Plug 
You can tell a lot by reading your spark plug. Here's how to check your jetting by reading the plug. Always start with a new plug that is of proper heat range and reach. Using a plug with an improper heat range or incorrect reach can cause engine damage or poor performance. Proper torque is essential as an improperly tightened plug can damage the engine. Before removing any plug, clean the area around it thoroughly to prevent debris from entering the cylinder. A dry acid brush and an air compressor work great. Run the engine at least 10 minutes, as a new plug will not color immediately. To obtain an accurate reading from a new spark plug:1. Accelerate at full throttle on a straight 2. Push the engine stop button and pull the clutch lever in to release the clutch 3. Coast to a stop 4. Remove the spark plug Porcelain Insulator
Center Electrode
Side Electrode
It's best to use a magnifying glass to inspect the spark plug. The porcelain insulator (1) around the center electrode (2) should appear clean and colorless with a gray ring around the center electrode where it exits the porcelain. Metallic specks indicate lean jetting that is removing metal from the piston. Black sooty streaks on the porcelain indicate rich jetting.Condition Plug Appearance Mixture 
Normal White (no color change) with light gray ring Correct
Overheating Extreme white with aluminum specs Lean
Wet Wet or sooty Rich
In addition to improper jetting:· A lean condition can be caused by air leaks in the inlet tract or exhaust system, passing of too much air because of the use of the wrong air filter, use of a less-restrictive aftermarket exhaust system, or leaks in the air box. · A rich condition can be caused by a plugged or dirty air filter, use of a more-restrictive aftermarket exhaust system, a clogged spark arrester, or excessive oil on the air cleaner. Excessive smoking may occur with this condition. A good article from our Forums:Reading spark plugs isn't too hard to do, but I've read various understandings of how to read spark plugs and it seems there's different schools of thought on this. I always use a lighted magnifying glass of 5X to 10X to better see the tiny deposits. When checking your spark plug, always use a good used spark plug, making sure it's not worn out. A worn out spark plug will have a worn or rounded center electrode and or side electrode. New spark plugs are hard to read accurately for mixture checks, but if you have to use a new spark plug, then make sure to put at least 15 to 20 hard minutes on it before attempting to get a reading. I do my spark plug readings from the base ring at the bottom of the threaded body. The 'L' shaped grounded side electrode that's welded to the base ring will clue you into the heat range as this is the closest part to the piston. The porcelain will clue you into timing and preignition/detonation issues while the base ring will clue you into the mixture. Many people I've talked to and some of the articles I've read simply look at the porcelain color and use that as their sole guide for a proper air/fuel mixture, but I don't agree with that all together and would not recommend basing your jetting decisions solely on the color of your spark plugs porcelain.Center/Ground ElectrodeYou want to first carefully look at the grounded side electrode to determine if you've got the proper heat range for your spark plug and this is done by closely examining the color change of the side electrode. If the color of the electrode changes near its end where it sits over the center electrode, then the spark plug heat range is too cold and what you're seeing is the color changing due to the heat transferring too quickly. If the color of the side electrode changes color near where it's welded to the base ring, then your spark plug is too hot and what you're seeing is a slower heat transfer from the side electrode to the base ring, resulting in preignition/detonation issues and most of the deposits will be burned off. Ideally, you want the side electrode of your spark plug to change color at about the half way point, about where it makes it's 'L' shaped bend.Base RingThe second thing you want to check is your spark plugs base ring and this will clue you into how your bike is jetted. The color of the base ring itself is close in color to the crown of the piston and what you're looking for here is a nice light to medium brown color all the way around the base ring. If you're seeing a chalky whitish or light grayish color or the color doesn't uniformly go all the way around the ring, then you are running too lean. If the color does go all the way around the ring, but you see dark colored soft dry soot that's heavily spotted on top of the base ring color, then you're running too rich and or possibly have a spark plug with too cold of a heat range. The presence of wet oil or ash deposits is a tell tale sign of possible engine problems such as valve stem or valve guide wear or worn out piston rings, etc, so don't confuse this with a rich mixture that leaves your spark plug carbon fouled.Porcelain ColorThe third thing to check is the porcelain color and this will clue you into preignition/detonation issues. What you're looking for are tiny specs of aluminum on the porcelain, which can be either black or shiny. If the tip of the insulator appears melted, then this is yet another clue to a pre-ignition/detonation problem. The detonation is caused by the air/fuel mixture exploding instead of burning and you may hear the resulting knocking sound from this, particularly when the engine is under a load. The knocking sound heard is actually a shock wave that's disrupting the boundary layer of cooler gasses that cover the internal parts of the combustion chamber, resulting in incomplete combustion. This rapid rise in pressure and temperature exerts extreme force on engine components and can do very bad things such as crack your engines head, crack or put holes in your piston, blow head gaskets, break your connecting rod, damage bearings, seals, etc. This is why you should not base all your jetting decisions on just the porcelain color alone because the porcelain color doesn't tell the whole story. Although the porcelain and base ring colors are similar, the porcelain usually appears lighter in color when compared to the base ring.

Spark Plug reference chart

http://www.verrill.com/moto/sellingguide/sparkplugs/plugcolorchart.htm



















 

Drilling your stock pipes
Posted By: Clayton Root
Date: Thursday, 21 August 2003, at 8:03 p.m. 
Before you spend a lot of cash, might I suggest you try drilling. I did mine last Saturday and think I've completed the job tonight. It is incredibly DEEP, like a Big Block V8. In fact, I went too far and it became so deep and mellow, I had to plug a couple holes to add a little bite. I had carried out the same treatment on my Suzuki Volusia, which also has Fat Pipes, and achieved what for me was the best sound possible. Loud enough and pleasant enough for me on the bike without unduly pissing off the folk who don't care for motorcycles at all. I may be one of those rare motorcyclists who actually believes other people have rights too. I know I for one get ticked by those Rice Rockets with a 1,000 watts and 10 sub-woofers in the trunk so I try to respect the neighbourhood a little. On both the Volusia and the VTX, I've had SO many positive comments at stoplights by motorists. Also, on the Volusia, I've had two acquaintances who'd opted for aftermarket pipes and hated them. When they heard mine, both commented that this was exactly what they were looking for. What's to lose but about $25 for drill bits and taps if you're already prepared to lay out the big bucks for aftermarket pipes anyway. Give it a shot. You may be very pleasantly surprised. 
There is science to this process or the result will be a failure. Too few holes or too small holes will give you a tinny sound. 3/8" is too small to let the lower frequencies escape. Although there doesn't seem to be much of a difference between 3/8" and 1/2", the surface area difference is substantial. 
You will need to work through at least 3 drill bit sizes or you're unlikely to end up with round holes. Since smaller drill bits are generally shorter, I had to buy a 6" long 1/8" 135 degree pilot bit to avoid scraping the chrome outer surface with the drill chuck. This bit worked well and didn't walk around much when trying to begin a new hole. Because of the tapered end of the exhaust pipe, center punching first is a challenge, especially at the top. My final drill bit of choice is 15/32" rather than 1/2". This can be followed with a 1/2" National Fine Tap so that fine threaded 1/2" bolts can be screwed in tightly to give you a route back to stock or allow you to custom tune the sound. I've found on my VTX that Black Allen Head bolts don't even look bad. If you don't jump ahead and overdo it like I did, you won't even need to thread any holes. That 1/2" tap was the most expensive item at $15. The 6" long 1/8" bit was $4 and I forget how much the 15/32" bit with the 3/8" chuck size cost as I had it left over from my Volusia work. 
SO, this was my process. When you look inside the end of the pipe, the black plate has some notches on it. Starting on the bottom of the pipes, I centered a hole on each of these three notches. Picture here is for general view but the placement of holes is not exactly the same as is in the article. 

Went for a ride. Sounded like $hit! This is when you really start to get worried but don't give up yet. Came back and drilled two more holes centering each of them between the center one and the outside two. So now I have a half circle of 5 holes looking something like a smile at the bottom of the black plate in each pipe. Went for another longer ride with my 23 year old on board. "It's awesome" says he. "It's not" says me, "but it's getting closer". Five holes was getting pretty deep and that Single Crankpin Character was beginning to be unleashed but there was a bit of a higher pitched poppiness to the sound. After our ride, I drilled a 6th hole up around the 2 o'clock position. The look is no longer symmetrical but its hard to see up in there anyway unless you're crouched right down. Went for another ride. "This is getting pretty close to what I want" says I. I came back home and figured what the heck. Eight holes sounded good on the Volusia (its a much easier job to form a perfectly concentric ring because their backplates don't have all these stupid notches) so let's try 9 holes on the VTX. Three more holes went in the top of each backplate at approximately 11, 12, and 1 o'clock. Go for another test ride. Man this thing is REALLY deep now. Now it's time to reduce the idle speed, oh yeah, lower, lower, no oil pressure light yet, lower, oops, can't blip the throttle without stalling, back up a little. SWEET! Let's take her out on the highway. At least I can now hear the exhaust at 65 mph without a windshield. BUT, it's a constant purr and I'm having a hard time distinguishing the separate firing pulses of the two cylinders. I could hear them with 6 holes. Time to experiment. Got out the Tap, threaded, and plugged the bottom hole with a 1/2" bolt. Yeah, that added just a little bite. Took the screw out and plugged the top hole instead. Nothing much too speak of. O.K. But what if I plug both the bottom hole which made a difference as well as the top hole. That will increase the velocity of gases through the remaining 7 holes and should sharpen the tone a bit more. Time for another test ride. Yeah baby, yeah! It's still got a very DEEP rumble at idle with enough edge under load to retain that wonderful Single Crankpin burble. It sounds especially sweet when pulling away from a stop. Actual volume is definitely a step up from stock but is not obnoxious at all. My wife and son love it now. This was one case where jumping ahead of myself cost me some time and aggravation but it was a good learning experience. There will be NO aftermarket pipes in my future for my VTX. For those who absolutely have to have more sound, I've heard a 12" drill bit through the 2nd plate will give it more bite but think that will also introduce some frequencies I don't care to hear and there's no easy way back. As it stands now, I can put my VTX back to absolutely stock exhaust sound with the purchase of an additional fourteen 1/2" bolts. 
At this point, the only bikes I've heard that I like better are the Police Spec Harleys and the Polaris Victories. For double the money of my VTX 1300 Retro, I'm not about to go there and put up with their other shortcomings just to satisfy my lust for sound quality.

Here are the tools used;

Clayton

Here is a modification and tip.

Quiet/loud/Quiet

If you are one of us that drilled the seven holes in your muffler tail pipes. You can get a couple of electrical junction box covers and cut them to the diameter of the inside of the tail pipe with a hole in the center for the pipe to stick threw. Then with two sheet metal screws you can cover up the holes again. take um on and off in just a couple of minutes. Only four screws and both covers are off or back on again.
If the screw holes loosen up from taking them on and off, just put the next size larger screws in.

Doug

******************************************************************
Speedo rattle fixed 
Posted By: Pöi§ön
I’ve had an annoying speedo rattle since my 13ooC was new. Took care of it a few days ago and thought I’d share since it seems to have taken care of it. Used some #7 rubber "O" rings I found in Lowes plumbing department. $1.50 for a ten pack. Here is the step by step: 

Remove the gas cap. Loosen the upper 4 mounting screws. Remove the bottom three, and tilt the speedo unit up and push back. It should now be free from the tank except for the wires. Slip a soft cloth under the unit to protect your tank and keep you from dropping anything into the gas hole. Now remove the upper 4 bolts and the speedo unit will drop out. You will probably have to re-position the weather stripping at the bottom of the lens. Now… the idea is to sandwich the rubber O rings between the metal mounting tabs and the plastic housing at all seven points. To temporarily hold the O rings in place, I rubbed them across a plain old glue stick and centered them over the threaded metal tabs. I did the 4 that hold the speed unit first and screwed them in. Those were the hardest as it was mildly difficult to line the holes back up without disturbing the weather stripping. Now stick the O rings on the bottom 3 points and slide the housing back into place. There is a tab on the tank that slips into a groove at the front of the unit. Make sure the rubber didn’t fall off of it, and check to be sure the 2 rubber feet on the front of the housing are still in place. Screw the last 3 bolts in and tighten everything up. Total time - 2 beers. Not very difficult at all. I’ve ridden a few hundred miles so far and not a peep from it. I don’t see how it could since all metal to plastic points are cushioned with rubber. Rubber washers would work as well but I couldn’t find any that looked thin enough. The O rings flattened right out and didn’t raise the housing much. Hope this helps any of you with this annoying rattle. 

Here is another thought;

richw56
Joined: 08 May 2004
Posts: 225
Location: Long Island, NY

PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2005 11:41 pm Post subject: Variation On The Speedo Rattle Fix Reply with quote
I was using o-rings to address my speedo rattle, based on Poison's excellent advice in earlier posts. (I wish I understood the bike half as well as that guy does.)
But I got pi$$ed off a couple of weeks ago when I removed the speedo housing to straighten out a bad connection to the trip meter switch, and promptly started accidentally knocking the o-rings off the bike and onto the floor (it's not easy to keep them in place when taking the speedo housing off and on, although using glue stick does help a lot).
So I decided to experiment with 'reinforcement labels'. These are the washer-shaped labels that are used to reinforce the holes in a sheet of looseleaf paper (so it doesn't get torn out of a binder too easily).
They have light adhesive on one side, and are a perfect shape for this application. I stacked the labels eight high for each spot (to give them a little thickness). The hole in the center is exactly the right size, and they stay put because of the light adhesive.
Cost is no factor -- I picked up a pack of 544 of the things at the local drug store for 99 cents.
Most importantly, it did the job. No rattle at all, and I've done quite a bit of riding since putting these in.
_________________
black '04 1300C
























Installing Progressive Fork Springs.

What you’ll need – 

One set of Progressive Fork Springs
Torque Wrench
17mm Socket Head
17mm Closed End Ratchet Wrench (Real handy tool since working around the fork cap can be tight.)
6mm Torx wrench socket (it’s an Allen Wrench head – but they call them Torx heads. I bought a full metric set from Northern Tools that fits my ¼” socket wrench – real handy when working on the beast.)
A good bike lift

Start by lifting the bike – you want the front wheel completely off the ground.

Lay a towel over the front fender – and have several shop towels ready – you WILL drip some fork oil off the old springs when you pull them out.

There are some wire anchors set under the bars over each fork cap. They slide off the metal anchor point towards the center of the bars. This gives you just enough room to use the torque wrench later. (Don’t worry – they slide right back on when you’re done.)

Doing one fork start to finish at a time – 

With the 6mm Torx Head socket and a socket wrench loosen the upper pinch bolt just enough to take the pressure off the fork cap. It is the pinch bolt located just below and to the rear of the fork cap. (You only need to loosen it about 1 turn.)

Using the closed end self ratcheting 17mm wrench slowly loosen and remove the fork cap. (Keep in mind that the fork spring is pushing up on it from below – keep pressure down on it with your palm as you unscrew it or it may just join the Chinese in orbit!)

Once the Fork Cap is removed take the 4” spacer out of the fork and lay it on a clean towel on the floor.

Stick your finger into the fork and remove the small metal washer that’s lying on top of the spring. Lay it next to the spacer.

Slowly remove the spring – you can bend it forward to clear the bars and slowly pull it out. Keep a shop towel around it as you pull it out as it will be dripping with fork oil.

Insert the new Progressive Spring into the fork. Although Progressive says it doesn’t matter go ahead and insert it with the closely packed end in first.

Put the metal washer in the fork – laying it on top of the spring.

Put the 4” spacer back in the fork on top of it all.

Now the fun part – pushing down on the fork cap to seat it in the fork tube use the 17” self ratcheting wrench to screw it back in. (Here’s where you find out that the socket wrench is to big – but a self ratcheting wrench is perfect for this. It takes some force to push it all in and seat it – just take your time and don’t force it if the threads don’t seat properly. Just back out and start again.

Once it’s screwed in (don’t screw it real tight) – use the 17mm socket head and the Torque Wrench to tighten it to 17 lbf-ft.

Using the 6mm Torx head socket and the Torque Wrench tighten the Upper Pinch Bolt to 17 lbf-ft.

Reattach the wire anchor on the bottom of the bars.

Clean up any drops of fork oil.

Repeat above on the other fork. 

It sounds like a lot – but I did it in about 30 minutes and am admittedly mechanically inept.

Enjoy the ride.

GUNNY

















********************************************************************
WOBBLE AND FRONT END CLUNK

Well folks, it’s been awhile since I posted here. I think this is important and everyone should take heed. I began experiencing wobble at around 11,000 miles and it kept getting worse as I reached 16,000. The front tire also began to “seek” its track in hard high speed turns, requiring a disturbing amount of steering force to control the oscillation of the handlebars. Today I removed the forks top triple-tree and found both the steering stem adjusting nut and jam nut easily turned as a unit by hand. YIKES!!! I released the jam nut by disengaging the two lock washer tangs that held it in place and removed it from the steering stem. I then tightened the adjusting nut until the effort to turn the forks was close to the specs in the Honda Service Manual. I then re-installed the lock washer and tighten the jam nut until the adjusting nut would not back off. The lock washer tangs were then bent back in to re-engage the jam nut. What a difference that made. Many of you remember my complaints about a clunking noise when I ran over bumps and road buckles. It’s now apparently gone and Ol’ Phideaux is driving like a Ferrari again. I urge everyone that has wobble, clunking or a combination of both to check the tightness of the stem adjusting nut. It could save you a chunk of grief. 
Phideaux




















***************************************************************
REMOVING EXHAUST CRUSH GASKETS
Ty (RTSTORK)

I'm replacing the stock exhaust and I'm having trouble getting the exhaust crush gaskets out of the motor. Tried a screwdriver and hammer but its a tight fit and can't get a good angle. The one on the rear is even harder to get to. How did you guys get them out? Thanks!


From; TopDog2 (RANDY724)

They are hollow. Use an awl to punch a hole in them and then you can get them out with a screw.




















****************************************************************
Shocks, Rear, Installing new ones

If you have the floor jack, you can handle the shocks. 
They're pretty easy to change. 
Just jack it up until the weight is off the old ones (don't raise the rear wheel off the ground). 

With neutral weight on the shocks, unbolt them, and slide them off. 
To put the shorter ones on: put the top on first, and lower the bike "SLOWLY" until the lower mount aligns with the shock, and then slip it on. 
Tighten the bolts, and ride. 

It's really not that hard.

VTX-Ryder























Plug or eliminate the Air Injection System (EPA crap) Honda calls it the Pair Valve. 

This system is vacuum operated. On decel the vacuum created opens the Pair Valve...it sucks fresh air in from the air box thru the hose to the Pair Valve then the fresh air goes thru the two hoses from the Pair Valve to the inlets on top of each head. The air enters into the exhaust and burns off any unburnt gas exiting the cylinders. This, of course causes a small explosion, which makes the 'backfiring' noise. It is especially noticeable with aftermarket pipes. 

Find the hose that goes from the backside of the airbox to the Pair Valve...pull it off and plug it with a marble of a size that makes a tight fit. Then put the hose back on the air box. OR...eliminate all of that mess and just cap off the inlets on top of the heads. And also plug the vacuum hose that connects to the Pair Valve. 

I always eliminate the whole mess on all my bikes. Makes a lot more room under the tank.

BILLH

********************************************************************
Cobra Lightbar installation on Memphis Shades windshield.

To install a Cobra Lightbar on a Memphis Shade windshield on a VTX 1300, Purchase a Cobra Relocation Bracket made for the Honda 1100 Shadow. The part # is BLV40030.

Gramps





















********************************************************************
CLEANING THE BIKE.
· First soak a large towel and lay it on the windshield. This is to get the bugs off later. 
· If there is real dirt just use any good auto cleaner and wash it.
· After it is clean and dry use “The Bom”. One of the best products I have found. It cleans and shines both the paint and the chrome. It does not contain any animal fats. Use a small cloth slightly moist for applying, spray the Bom on the rag, (rub it good) and use an old T-shirt for light buffing. 
· Go here: http://badtothebom.com/welcome.htm 
· It seems a little expensive but it has a lot of cleanings in the bottle.
· Another way is to purchase some “Microfiber” cloth at Wal-Mart. You can keep one of these moistened in a zip lock and a dry t-shirt in another. Clean it when you are out on the road. The Microfiber cloth is good for the windshield.

WAXING

Try this. 

Another method to avoid water spots:

donut
Joined: 19 Jan 2005
Posts: 112
Location: Coloma, Mi.

PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2005 11:02 pm Post subject: NO SPOTS Reply with quote
OK.... Here I go again.
I never use soap or any other cleaner???????????
I got you wondering, dont I.

What I do is wash the bike in the spring with a mild dish water soap.
Ok I did say I don't use soap, Well only one time in the spring.
Then for the rest of the year.
I have a small bucket, say about a 1/2 gallon. I fill 1/2 full of water. I then pour about 5 to 6oz ( I just dump, not good at measuring) of dishwasher JET DRY in. It comes in a plastic bottle in the 20oz size.
The wife gets it at Sam"s club for around $6. I use a wash cloth dipped into it and a small towel. It gets the bugs off easily too. Just wipe it down and wipe it off with a dry towel. Remember it is designed to not streak or spot. In about 20min I'm out riding. I keep reusing it until it gets too dirty.
Off subject--- Wash your windows on your house with a kitchen sponge mop with soap and water. Then rinse them with water.
Now with a second mop and bucket with u--guest it JET DRY then wipe the windows with the mop rinse and walk away and go ride.
You can do a whole house very quickly.






















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Removing the rear tire.

This is just off the top of my head so if I forgot something please correct me. It is pretty straight forward, depending on the exhaust installed you may have to remove the lower pipe or the whole exhaust system.

ADDED NOTE;
On the "R" model you need to remove the two bolts on the muffler support so you can move the pipes so the wheel will clear the seal on the gear case.

“OLDWAY”

Then.. 

1. Place bike on jack with the rear tire 12" off the ground. 

2. Remove the caliper stop bolt located approx. 6" in front of the axle nut. (black powered coated bolt through the swing arm) 

3. Remove the brake hose clamp bolt 

4. Remove the rear axle nut. (27mm socket) (A 1 1/16” socket will fit)

5. Tie the caliper up so it will not hang by the hose when the tire is removed 

6. Place another jack under the tire for support while removing the axle. 

7. Tap the axle with a rubber mallet to get it moving. 

8. Grab the axle from the final drive side and pull it out. 

9. Move the jack supporting the tire to the right to disengage from final drive. 

10. Carefully lower the tire making sure everything is clear. 

When reinstalling the tire make sure to pack the final drive gear very well with Molly Paste. (not regular grease!!) Reverse the procedure and torque the axle nut to 81 ftlbs.
_________________
Chaos

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Speedo rattle fixed 
Posted By: Pöi§ön
I’ve had an annoying speedo rattle since my 13ooC was new. Took care of it a few days ago and thought I’d share since it seems to have taken care of it. Used some #7 rubber "O" rings I found in Lowes plumbing department. $1.50 for a ten pack. Here is the step by step: 

Remove the gas cap. Loosen the upper 4 mounting screws. Remove the bottom three, and tilt the speedo unit up and push back. It should now be free from the tank except for the wires. Slip a soft cloth under the unit to protect your tank and keep you from dropping anything into the gas hole. Now remove the upper 4 bolts and the speedo unit will drop out. You will probably have to re-position the weather stripping at the bottom of the lens. Now… the idea is to sandwich the rubber O rings between the metal mounting tabs and the plastic housing at all seven points. To temporarily hold the O rings in place, I rubbed them across a plain old glue stick and centered them over the threaded metal tabs. I did the 4 that hold the speed unit first and screwed them in. Those were the hardest as it was mildly difficult to line the holes back up without disturbing the weather stripping. Now stick the O rings on the bottom 3 points and slide the housing back into place. There is a tab on the tank that slips into a groove at the front of the unit. Make sure the rubber didn’t fall off of it, and check to be sure the 2 rubber feet on the front of the housing are still in place. Screw the last 3 bolts in and tighten everything up. Total time - 2 beers. Not very difficult at all. I’ve ridden a few hundred miles so far and not a peep from it. I don’t see how it could since all metal to plastic points are cushioned with rubber. Rubber washers would work as well but I couldn’t find any that looked thin enough. The O rings flattened right out and didn’t raise the housing much. Hope this helps any of you with this annoying rattle.

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INSTALLING HONDA WINDSHIELD

Installing yourself - the windshield is easy. The light bar requires removing your front turn signals and remounting them on the light bar. The directions are pretty good. I did it without any help and I am no wrench head (unfortunately).

If you can - try to do both at the same time - do not tighten down the actual lamps until you get the shield on, they will be in the way. Just hand tighten the lamp mounting bolts until you get the shield on - fold them forward and the shield will go on.

If I remember right I did the entire windshield first to get the angles right on the fork mounts - removed the shield but not the mounts in order to keep the shield out of the way - then did light bar. Did not tighten down lamps, mounted windshield, then tightened lamps.

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LIGHTBAR LIGHTS-KEEPING THEM ON WITH HIGH BEAMS

If you are interested in keeping your driving lights on during the high beam, this is an easy solution.

1. Take the front headlight rim off.

2. Find the mini connector with the blue, green and split color orange wire. The blue wire is your high beam, the green the ground and the orange your low beam wires. These wires go to the relay and tell the relay which beam is working.

3. Snip the blue wire on one side of the connector and tape it.

4. Your driving lights will now stay on in both upper beam and lower beam. The relay will not switch them off.

The driving lights being on will now result in about the same wattage as 2 headlights for cars.

When you switch to high beam, you end up with close and far coverage. Mine work great.

And This too….

 From: jaustin

 To: bikerdj111@mchsi.com

 Sent: Monday, August 02, 2004 3:24 AM

 Subject: light bar mod

Hey NC,  I did the light bar mod on my 04 VTX 1300 to keep the bar on while the high beams are on.  I did not have the same wiring as listed in the write up on your page.  It tells you to find the connector with the blue, green and split orange wire.  I did not have one.  What I did was find the relay plug that comes with the light bar and found that the blue wire is the high beam wire and cut it.  Worked like a charm.  you may want to add that to your info site, which is great by the way and thank you for sharing it with us.

  Sincerely,

James Austin

Handlebar Vibration

To reduce vibrations in the handlebars, simply remove your grips and the stock vibration dampener bars and fill the whole thing up with BB's. Lead shot balls will probably work a tiny bit better, but BB's are much easier to find.
As far as the stock vibration dampener bars...yeah...there's a heavy steel rod with two rubber "stars", one on each end, shoved up into the handlebars. The BB's I think would do a better job of vibration reduction though.

TIGHTENING EXHAUST NUTS

Ok...today I pulled off one of the exhaust pipes loose to be able to slip in a chrome frame cover behind it. Went fine except when I went to put the nuts back on the exhaust pipe at the head, they wouldn't go back on. Turns out, the end threads were pretty well shot and weren't grabbing enough to pull the nut down on the stud. The threads deeper in looked fine, but that first row or so looked rather dodgy.

After thinking this over for a little bit, I cut a small piece of electrical tape and folded the ends back so I could stick it to the flange of the nut yet still have the sticky side out. I then went ahead and put it on the stud and started turning it. It worked like a charm...the tape filled enough of the gap to allow it to grab and pull itself down to the second row of threads. This little trick worked on both nuts and the exhaust tightened down just fine.

Just thought I'd pass this little tidbit along in case anyone else ran into the same problem.

Jeremy

AIRBOX LEAK 
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Just a little heads up. When I changed the air filter at 11,500 miles, I found fine sand on the inside of the filter housing (carb side of filter). It appears that that the cover doesn't push the filter tight enough to the back plate. You can see this by looking at the seal on the filter, it will show an indentation where it seals to the back plate. Mine showed two spots that didn't appear to seal well. My fix was to use 3M two sided mounting tape on the ends of the fins of the filter cover. I wrapped the tape over the ends of the fins effectively making them longer so the cover will push the filter tighter to the back plate. I also used synthetic grease on the filters gasket as they do on dirt bikes to assure a good seal.


SilverVTX04s